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Qala'at al-Kahf: Assassin Stronghold

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HobWahid
HobWahid
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

The Assassin Castle at Misyaf

  • January 26, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
The Assassin Castle at Misyaf

In the time of the Crusades, there was one name that could strike fear into both Crusader and Muslim alike, and that was the Assassins, the name of the radical Ismaili sect that had moved into Syria from Persia in the early 12th century, taking advantage of its fragmented state to establish a strong foothold in the Ansariye Mountains. The Assassins, the name supposedly being a corruption of the Arabic hashisheen, meaning "those who use hashish," was so powerful that it passed into the European lexicon with its present meaning. Even during the time of the Crusades, not much was known about this sect and its leader, Rashid ud-Din Sinan, the Old Man in the Mountain. Instead, various rumors arose about their drug use, their sexual exploits, and the fanatical devotion of the Assassins to their leader. For almost 200 years, however, this sect terrorized both the Crusader and Muslim armies during the Crusades with its constant killing of Crusader and Muslim leaders. For those two centuries, they were one of the most powerful entities in Syria and the castle of Misyaf was their base.

Today, if you are lucky enough to come to Misyaf on one of the misty mornings so famous to the Ghab plains around Hama, then you will see just why the Assassins and their stronghold struck so much fear into the hearts of men that even Saladin himself couldn’t bear to attack the fortress. It is perched majestically on top of hill at the foot of the Jebel Ansariye, and when you catch it rising out of the morning mist, it is a castle worthy of Lord of the Rings or some other fantasy epic. The castle is surprisingly well-preserved, and walking around the castle, even though you can see the remains of Roman and Byzantine columns and capitals integrated into the walls, you still can get a feel for the traditional Ismaili architecture of the castle through its irregular stone work. Although the castle itself is not the equal of Krak des Chavaliers or some of the other Crusader castles in the region, the views atop castle of the al-Ghab plains to the east and the Jebel Ansariye to the west are spectacular. The only disappointment is that a rather large town has built up around the castle, spoiling the view a bit.

For some reason, this castle is not often visited by travelers, and if you get lucky like I did, you will be the only person in the whole castle, and when that happens, it is a magical place. Also, don’t forget to take advantage of a unique experience that the few who visit Misyaf miss, tea and argileh (hookah) in a cave. If you follow the path around the castle, you will find a series of caves in the rock. Nearby is a small hut; bang on the door and they’ll set you up with an argileh and tea in the cave, a wonderful experience.

From journal Hama and the Orontes Valley

Editor Pick

Qala'at al-Kahf: Assassin Stronghold

  • January 26, 2005
  • Rated 5 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
Qala'at al-Kahf: Assassin Stronghold

Out of the 15 or so Crusader Castles that I have visited while in Syria, none of them can compare to Qaalar al-Kahf (Castle of the Cave) when it comes to sheer natural magnificence. Set perched atop a tree-covered promontory, the ruins of the castle keep watch over the surrounding valley and bring to mind images of castles from Lord of the Rings or some other fantasy masterpiece. Approaching the castle by road, it is easy to see why the mysterious assassin sect decided to build one of their strongholds on this exact site.
Even today, the castle is in the literal middle of nowhere. Besides the obviously new road that approaches that dead-ends at the castle, there is not another road or house in sight, and the only sounds that drift down the valley are those of the wind and the occasional flock of birds. Despite having my own car and a guidebook, it took me a little over 45 minutes, making numerous stops to ask directions, and a bit of luck to find the castle. I can only imagine what it was like in the 1100s, when the armies of Saladin searched all around the Jebel Ansariye for the castle. If you do not speak Arabic, the only way to get to the castle is probably to hire a taxi in the nearby town of Ash-Sheikh Badr, because otherwise, you will be driving around, trying to follow signs that are only in Arabic, and you will be in the most remote parts of the mountains, where an English or French speaker is about as common as someone who speaks Japanese. A taxi from Ash-Sheikh Badr would cost around $20, but the trip is more than worth it.

While the castle itself is in an advanced state of ruin, thanks to an overzealous British woman who persuaded the Ottoman army to destroy it, still the spectacular scenery and the fact that you will most certainly be the only one there is enough to make up for the mediocre and overgrown ruins. The approach to the castle is the best-preserved part. The path leads you by the old baths, which are still in great shape with all the intricate stone work and even the terracotta pipes present. From the baths, you then approach the entranceway, carved out of the face of the cliff with an Arabic inscription on the lintel. After going through the cave-like entrance, you climb up the stairs and into the keep of the castle. Here, there is not too much left, but the views are unbeatable. The green mountains of the Jebel Ansariye are spread out before you, and with a little imagination, you might be able to imagine the castle as a towering fortress containing the most feared man of the Crusader-era, Rashid ud-Din Sinan.

One thing I only wish I had time to go back and do is spend a night camping on the mountain. That, I imagine, would be an unbeatable experience.

From journal Hama and the Orontes Valley

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