Where did it go? Where was it? Why was a masterpiece of Belgium neo-gothic architecture, Abbey de Maredsous, so hard for us to find? There were no signs, but all the maps and brochures said it was here, outside the village of Denee on N971 in southern Belgium. Earlier we had stumbled on a rough timbered building with a rectangular red and white sign sporting Maredsous. After wrongly assuming it was the entrance to the grounds, we trudged back to the tourist office. In broken English, we learned our building was a closed restaurant. "Go," the frustrated man at the tourist office demanded. "Go," he emphasized pointing. "More," he pleaded.
Off we went. Dark green trees turning colors hugged the curvy narrow road as we searched the wooded hills for signs of a church. A sparkling spring bubbled beside the road as we spun around curve after curve, loving the wonderful quiet scenery, but we found no monastery. Resigning ourselves to enjoying the scenery we popped out of the forest into a brilliant green valley and finally the tiny twin spires of a church hung on a hilltop. Still I was disappointed. It had to be more obvious. After a few more turns and tunnels the road ended at a small, unoccupied guardhouse. We entered the compound. Before us spread a three-acre tree studded parking lot, surrounded by the majestic stonewalls of the cathedral, meditation gardens and cloister. On acres and acres were a Guest House, College Saint Benoit de Maredsous, a library, St Joseph Visitor Center, a cheese dairy, a brewery, a bakery, a playground, and in the hills the cabins and camping area. Maredsous is its own city. As we admired crimson vines crawling the lofty tower of the enclosed Cloister, we were inspired and impressed.
After a quick gawk at the cathedral (see companion entry Maredsous Cathedral) we strolled the flower-lined pathway right to the St Joseph Visitor Center. In the shape of a U, the center housed a giant beer garden in the U in front of the entrance. Rows of tables hid beneath a sheltering arbor. In view of the garden a playground sported merry go-rounds and teeter-totters on a lush lawn. Too bad it was a little cool for a picnic. Inside the left wing was a cafeteria designed to serve hundreds. At the entrance an inviting little café displayed the various hearty beers all paired up with collector glasses and a quick barman dispensed a dark frothy brew. Freshly baked bread clung to a baker’s rack next to the cooler with bricks of fine mellow cheese. The right wing included a shop of religious goods, ceramics, and books. An audiovisual film in Dutch or French was shown for the asking. Shelves displayed colorful heavy ceramic bowls, pitchers, and platters in swirling grays and blues.
Maredsous is open every day March to October 9am-6pm, Nov-Feb 10am-6pm, Sunday 9am-7pm. Admission is free. All credit cards are accepted. Website