Description: Islands floating four kilometers above the nearest ocean? In the Titicaca Lake everything is possible, even sky-high islands.

Well, almost everything. Divided between Peru and Bolivia, a comprehensive visit to the lake islands is complex; here. Both the Isla del Sol (Sun Island) and Isla de la Luna (Moon Island), where according to Inca legends their gods were born, are in Bolivia. The larger Isla del Sol is by far the most popular one to visit and is easily accessible from Copacabana in half-day or whole day trips. On the way there, the Isla de la Luna and Isla de la Estrella (Star Island) can be observed. This is another reason for the approach proposed in the first entry of this journal for the exploration of Inca related sites.

However, Inca ruins are only part of the lake’s reality. Some of its islands became refugees for people displaced by the Inca and others, in a fashion reminiscent of the Vietnamese people living in floating houses in the Cambodian Tonle Sap Lake and the Mekong River. The most prominent group in the Puno area is called Uro; they are closely related to the Aymara and speak a similar language. Nowadays they live on floating islands made of totora reeds; they navigate among them on boats also made out of totora. Due to their nature, these constructions are unique, each one featuring distinctive decorations, often displaying natural motifs from the area. These islands are better visited from the Peruvian side; Puno is the best departure point to Taquile, Suasi, and Amantani, the most popular floating islands.

A round trip costs around 10 USD and can be bought at the pier or the travel agencies. Most tours depart between 7 and 9 AM and arrive at the islands two and half hours later. Trips back begin at 2 PM. There are two ways of visiting the islands: a day tour and an overnight option. Andean cultures are communal in nature; property belongs to the village instead of to the individual (the same holds for Aymara communities), that means the visit is seen as a communal event and ruled by the elders. Recent constitutional changes in Bolivia reflect this reality. The chief – as all other positions – is held in yearly rotation. That means if the visitor wishes to stay overnight, the decision about which family would accommodate him – or her – is taken by the elders. As such, the visitor may feel – and good reason – treated as luggage. Yet, if deciding to stay, a bed costs around 3 USD per night and includes lunch, dinner and a breakfast but neither electricity nor hot water. There is a small convenience shop, but no restaurants. Thus, a day visit is more sensible.

Floating islands in the skies mean there is need acclimatize to the altitude; see my Everest journal for details. However, even following a perfect acclimatization there is no way of getting natural protection to the strong UV radiation. Following a usually cold night, many travelers recline in their chairs and soak up the sun while on the boat. Two hours of such a strenuous activity are enough to burn up most skins. Tempting as it is, avoid the sun.

Once on the island, there is an entrance fee of almost 2 USD, which is paid upon descent from the boat. Then, the travelers can walk around the island on the walkways – there is no other transport method there. Beyond the initial excitement at the sight of these precarious reed structures, there is no much to see, except for souvenirs. Local textiles and knickknacks are for sale at a premium price; the same can be seen and purchased in Puno. Probably the best souvenirs are items made from alpaca wool, they are light, practical and of good quality. From time to time you may spot vicuña items; they are of extraordinary quality, their isolation is perfect and their touch divine. However, in Bolivia they are already prohibited since the animal must be killed in order to take the wool; keep that in mind before purchasing it. An attempt to bargain here – and no matter how ridiculous the initial price was - may lead to disengagement; the seller would not see you anymore. The buyer will become little more than an inconsequential breeze. I mentioned that with regard to Bolivia; it has to do to the way these businesses operate. Don’t argue, seek another shop.

It is possible to travel first to Amantani and then from there to the more touristy Taquile, from where it is possible to return directly to Puno, in such a way the traveler would get a wider experience of these sky-high floating islands.

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