Strasbourg’s Cathedrale de Nôtre Dame is the city’s symbol, its huge spire soaring up into the sky, visible from just about everywhere. It’s the centre of the Old Town, the heart of Strasbourg, surrounded by cafés, souvenir-sellers, buskers and awestruck tourists.

And what a history it has. Construction began in 1176, on the site of an earlier basilica that had burnt down. About 50 years later, in 1225, a team from Chartres arrived to work on the cathedral, and they are largely responsible for the distinctively Gothic feel of the church’s architecture. Work on the cathedral continued till 1439, when the 142 mt high spire was finally erected (according to local literature, this remained the "highest edifice in Christendom till the 19th century").

All those centuries of painstaking work is evident in the sheer detail of the cathedral, inside and out. We spent ten minutes just admiring the carefully carved tympani of the three-portal entrance. The portal on the right, with its depiction of the Last Judgment, is especially striking.

Inside, the cathedral stretches in a long nave flanked by one magnificent stained glass window after another. These range from early medieval ones (some of which are currently being restored) to modern ones, so the difference in styles is interesting, but thankfully not jarring. There’s the usual rose window, a particularly intricate one with patterns predominantly in yellow, blue and white radiating out to an even more complex pattern of flowers in red and white.

At the far end of the nave lie the cathedral’s best-known works. On the left is the 15th century Mount of Olives, a sculpted tableau depicting scenes from Christ’s life, especially the Sermon on the Mount, the betrayal at Gethsemane, and the crucifixion. Separated from this by a few feet of stone floor is a very intricately carved baptismal font where the stonework looks almost like lace!

Across the nave, on the right, is the Pillar of Angels, a stone column decorated with life-size statues of Christ, the evangelists and the Angels of the Judgment. Behind this is another huge but very different work of art, the Astronomical Clock. Created by 16th century Swiss clockmakers, this is famous for its parade of mechanical figures. Everyday, half an hour past noon, a little procession of the twelve apostles files past a figure of Christ while other mechanical figures do their own thing.

Entry to the cathedral is free, though you’ll have to pay for extras such as guides, ascending the tower, or illuminating the Mount of Olives or the Pillar of Angels (they’re visible without illumination, but not enough for a good photograph). And yes, do try to visit early: by noon, the crowds are dense (and noisy) enough to warrant an occasional stern "Shhhh!!" over the cathedral’s PA system.

Created between 1931 and 1939, Musée de L’œuvre Nôtre Dame is primarily devoted to the works of the Cathedrale de Nôtre Dame next door. The cathedral is (or was) a veritable treasure house of superb religious art, much of which was in danger of falling prey to time. A lot of this art was therefore shifted into the shelter of the museum. The Musée de L’œuvre Nôtre Dame today houses not just art that was originally part of the cathedral, but also religious and semi-religious art from Strasbourg, Alsace and the neighbouring region. Incidentally, although the art you see in the museum was originally part of the cathedral, replicas have been placed in the cathedral at the spot from where the original art was taken. For example, the intricate carvings of part of the portals at the cathedral are replicas—the originals are in the museum.

The museum spreads over three floors of a building dating back to the 14th century. The ground floor consists of galleries of art from the cathedral; Romanesque stained glass and sculpture; medieval and Renaissance porcelain; and a medieval garden on one side. Between this floor and the first is an intermediate landing, with a collection of objects in ivory, gold and silver. The first floor itself has displays of paintings, and restored chambers containing beautifully carved wooden furniture, especially chests and cupboards. The second floor is a mix of stained glass, paintings, tapestries and sculpture from different periods.

Since we were in a hurry, we decided to do as quick a round as we possibly could, but there were some exhibits that were enticing enough to hold our attention. Among these were, on the ground floor, the exquisite life-size statues of the wise and foolish virgins (the originals are on the tympanum of the cathedral), the stunning 12th and 13th century stained glass in the intermediate landing, and the excellent carving on the 17th century cupboards on the top floor.

I also found the garden very intriguing—although it has some old tombstones, a baptismal font and other old pieces of sculpture, the (to me) interesting bit about the garden was the beds of carefully labelled herbs in the middle. Although more common herbs such as thyme, mint and basil were here, I also finally got to have a look at some I’d only heard about, like hyssop. The garden’s also a quiet nook to relax a bit after you’ve done your rounds of the galleries above and around.

Entry to the museum (if you don’t have the museum pass) is €4 per person, and includes a free audio guide.

Stendhal admired it, and Goethe was inspired by it to launch a romantic movement. Four centuries ago, it was tallest building in Christendom, so many travelled to see it.

Rose interior
Early morning, we entered without admission, but there usually is a small fee. Inside, we should have been fined for our loud exclamations! (Did I mention that we were shocked?) I’ve never seen such beautiful rose columns! I started walking toward the high altar--this feature was torn out centuries ago in many churches, such as Notre Dame de Paris!--with a too-loud "Aaaahhh."

The pulpit and high altar
The pulpit is a work of stone filigree. This photo of it reveals a closer look at columns supporting the nave.

I admired the organ and choir stall decoration, but soon I was standing before steps to the altar squinting at inlaid arcs of mosaic in dark there when, all of a sudden, light flooded the scene. Over to the side was a slotted machine for coins, so we inserted 20 cents and lighted it a few times in hopes of getting a better photo. Still, we were at the base of long stairs.

Around the corner, we found another coin box and took another photo from the side--a little closer, but at an awkward angle. Our frenzy with capturing this feature was quickly abandoned when we beheld another fancy. (Never was there a cathedral such as this!)

The Great Clock
By this time, a few more visitors had come in. Now, a man was putting coins in yet another box to get the Great Clock to light. Between the High Altar and the Great Clock, the bookstore was just opening, and the church employee there seemed undisturbed that he was watching grown children at a carnival. He was nice to change our large bill and approved of our high spirits. The Gross Horloge is spectacular, but we didn’t stay for the show, the Parade of the Apostles, (every day at 12:30), which I hear makes plenty of noise--roosters crowing and such!

More famous quotes!
The Cathedral and city have been described as having a different idea about democracy, faith, wealth, and worship. Openness and art, even "aristocracy without faction" may characterize both. I could add that the most beautiful church I’ve ever visited is also most entertaining.

The side aisles of the church, separated from the central nave by massive columns have vaulted ceilings, are both broad and high, large enough to be churches unto themselves. Each aisle contains a number of large Gothic stained-glass windows. As impressive as these are, they are surmounted and surpassed by the Gothic windows of the nave. The whole effect is one of wonderful colour and light. Unlike other churches of this age, you won’t see the choir and altarpieces. They are raised well above the level of the nave and are accessible only by a large stone staircase which is barred to the public.

There are five chapels surrounding the transept, not all of them accessible and a couple of them quite large. Two of the features of the church won’t be fully accessible to everyone. The 16th century astronomical clock, a wonderful and huge mechanism featuring classical figures operates at 12:30 each day. Tickets are sold at the postcard stand until 11:30 in the morning and then from the cashier at the south doorway from 12:00 to 12:20.

The tower is accessible in the summer only. It is one I would have liked to have climbed. When you see the situation of the church in the midst of this beautiful city, you will understand why.