Editor Pick
Basilica de San Petronio
- December 18, 2000
- Rated 3 of 5 by
Tavia from New York, New York
This church sits like the grand dame of Bologna, with her skirts gathered around her, surveying the to and fro of her subjects as they move about Piazza Maggiore. Before you go in, take a good long time to sit on the steps and people watch, eavesdrop (you can do this in any number of languages, as besides Italian I heard German and English), and if you are a smoker, bum a cigarette and savor it- everyone does it here. The view from here is perfect for this, as there are many steps and many more people going about their business in the Piazza. I sat here for a good 45 minutes, listening to Italian high schoolers argue about Ramazzoti and Paolo Conti and various other pop singer/songwriters. I also had a stair-mate for a few minutes who smoked himself a joint, and below me were two fine college students (grad student age) who occasionally would smile up at me.
All in all, I almost didn't even go in to the basilica to check out its virtues. I was glad I did, though, as it is a quiet haven from the caucophonous piazza. It was built in 1390 (!) but was never quite finished, like many other European structures that were started with war chest funds. The side chapels contain frescos by Giovanni da Modena, and the sundial in the middle is the largest ever built in an enclosed space (gee I wonder why?? Ha!). Besides the history and art inside (which is merely average as far as Italian churches go), the bulletin boards and flyers demonstrate an active and young parish, which I enjoy to see because it reminds me I am a guest in someone's parish, not a visitor in a museum, which can be so easy to forget when visiting ancient churches in Europe.
From journal Una gita a Bologna