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La Paz

The Witches Market / Mercado de Hechiceria Reviews

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Sagarnaga and surrounding area
La Paz, Bolivia

Zanne
Zanne
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The Witches Market/Mercado de Hechiceria

  • November 18, 2001
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Zanne from Brooklyn, New York
The Witches Market spreads out on both sides of Calle Sagarnaga, the street that rises on a steep hill behind the centrally located Iglesia de San Fransisco. The entire area behind and next to the church has become a handicraft sales district. In general the closer a shop is to the church the higher the prices that they charge. I saw small rugs with cats and butterflies on them that sold for $25 at the bottom of the hill and for $8 at the top.

The streets are lined with small shops and warren-like complexes where tiny stalls sell woven bags, clothing, handmade instruments, antique jewelry, etc. If you are hunting for bargains be sure to explore the inside and upstairs boths, merchandise from booth to booth does not vary as much as the prices.

Handwoven punchos or embroidered, fringed shawls cost between $10 to $25. An entire Cholla (native woman's) costume averages $200, about a year's pay for a Bolivian companeria.

Pan pipes come in souvenir and professional grades that range in price from $1 to $10. CD's recorded by local groups cost around $10 each.

Almost every price can be bargained down a bit, but bargaining is not required or expected; and if you are too determined, a merchant may decide not to sell to you at all.

The name "Witches Market" comes from the stands on the far end of Calle Linares. These all night establishments sell herbs, candles, candies shaped into minitures of luxury objects, and llama fetuses. All of these are used for traditional pratices that honor the great earth goddess, Patchamama. The more enterprising among the "brujos" also sell special good luck charms for tourists.

There are also many restaurants, nightclubs, and eco tour operators here.

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From journal La Paz, The Bowl In The Sky

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