Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum

Owen Lipsett
Owen Lipsett
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

Latvian Ethnographic Museum

  • March 25, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by michaelhudson from Jarrow, Tyne & Wear, United Kingdom
Latvian Ethnographic Museum

If you only have time to visit one museum in Riga, make it the Latvian Open-Air Ethnographic Museum. Located amid a pine forest on the banks of Lake Jugla, it boasts a collection of more than a hundred traditional buildings from all corners of the country, some almost four hundred years old.

Split into geographical sections representing each of Latvia’s four historical regions plus the area around the capital, you’ll need two hours at the very least to explore the site in any kind of detail. The timber buildings include a fishing village from the Baltic Sea coast, pottery sheds, windmills, bathhouses, beekeeping huts and churches.
There are more than three thousand period objects on display, providing a panorama of traditional Latvian life from the seventeen century onwards.

You can buy a map at the entrance or follow the signboards between each settlement, linked by woodland paths and riverside walks. By the entrance, a long wooden building houses a souvenir shop and restaurant selling Latvian staples like grey peas with bacon and rye bread. Alternatively, you’ll find picnic tables and benches located throughout the grounds.

Among the museum’s must-see exhibits are a German-built grain warehouse from Liepaja, constructed in 1697 and moved plank-by-plank to the museum in 1940, and an early-16th century Catholic church from the southern region of Latgale made entirely of logs hewn together at the sides.

It’s well worth visiting the museum at different times of the year, particularly as the buildings are not always open to the public. On national holidays, the summer and winter solstice and religious festivals costumed guides re-enact traditional folk events like Shrovetide Carnivals, log-pulling and Easter fairs. It’s as close as you’re ever likely to get to the vanished world of pre-Communist Latvia.

The museum is open daily from 10-5pm and is easily reached by public transport. Take bus number 1 from either Merkela or Terbates ielas in the direction of Pansionats and get off at Brivdabas muzejs, the first stop after the pass the lake on your right. The entrance is a two-minute signposted walk from the bus stop.



From journal Riga: Museums and Monuments

Editor Pick

Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum

  • December 21, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Owen Lipsett from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum

Founded in 1924 to contain collections from all over the newly independent Latvian state, the Ethnographic Open Air Museum offers a respite from the frenzied atmosphere of Vecriga and New Riga alike. Though situated on parkland on the shore of Lake Jugla, which gives it a bucolic feel, it’s still within Riga’s city limits and consequently is served by city buses. To get there, take Bus 1 from the corner of Merkela iela to the"Brivdabas muzejs" stop. To return, take any bus from the stop across the road.

Just outside the entrance, there’s an excellent recreated country tavern where you can sample traditional Latvian peasant food such as gray peas (which I highly recommend) and wash it down with beer brewed on the premises. Should you wish to bring your own food, there are picnic tables nearby. Other buildings nearby host various cultural events related to the museum’s exhibition, primarily music and dance performances, but also events geared specifically toward families. Many of the buildings inside double as traditional artisans’ studios, with pottery and other decorative items made on the premises for sale.

The best sights are inside, where buildings ranging from the seventeenth to early twentieth centuries are thoughtfully arranged, for the most part, in miniature villages according to both date and region. This makes for a sharp contrast with most other museums of this type, which tend to arrange buildings together based on type (for example, placing all windmills together), and gives the assemblage a more realistic feel. At the far edge, by Lake Jugla, making excellent use of the local landscape, there’s a recreated Liv fishing village. To sort this all out, it’s worth purchasing a map when you enter, though most of the buildings are accompanied by at least rudimentary descriptions in English.

Choosing a personal favorite from the museum’s dozens of buildings is difficult, but I found a small, wooden, eighteenth-century Russian Orthodox chapel, complete with an onion dome, to be the highlight of my visit. The variety of windmills on display is also quite interesting, as their shapes betray subtle architectural and mechanical improvements made over the centuries. However, it’s the overall setting, with the buildings placed within clearings in a pine wood that overlooks Lake Jugla, that’s the museum’s most appealing feature—it’s both a nice break from Riga and one of the city’s essential sights.

From journal Riga: Historic and Vibrant Baltic Metropolis

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