The Norton Simon is a gem of a museum at the edge of Old Pasadena, right off the Ventura Freeway (Route 134). It’s not the Uffizi, but the L.A. Times claims (rightly so) that the Norton Simon Museum has the "greatest painting collection in the Western United States." The van Goghs alone will take your breath away – don’t miss "Portrait of a Peasant (Patience Escalier)" and "The Mulberry Tree." Check out van Gogh’s disturbing portrait of his mother, painted from a photo after her death. (The only ear showing is devoid of detail and looks unfinished.) Like Degas, especially his dancers? There are over 100 works, including many bronzes.
The artwork in the museum’s Upper (main) Level spans 7 centuries, from the 14th through the 20th. There are true masterpieces by Henri Rousseau ("Exotic Landscape"), Modigliani ("Portrait of the Artist’s Wife", "Jeanne Hebuterne") Picasso, Cezanne, Gauguin: the list goes on and on. Rembrandt and other Dutch masters are also represented (the floral "vanitas" still-lifes by de Heem, Brueghel, and Bosschaert are stunning).
There are also other "lesser-known" artists who have unforgettable works here: Check out "Self-Portrait" by Marie-Genevieve Bouliar, "Landscape with Ruins and Animals" by Roelandt Savery, "Vase of Lilacs, Roses and Tulips," and "Cliffs at Etretat, La Porte D’Aval" by Gustave Courbet. If you are a dog lover, don’t miss Il Guercino’s portrait of "The Aldrovandi Dog."
I’m naming the really good pieces because the museum does show some art that is boring or second-rate and, frankly, not worth looking at. However, considering the excellence of so many other art works in the Norton Simon collection, showing the "duds" is a venial sin at best.
The museum also has a Sculpture Garden and a South Asian collection that I wasn’t able to visit (just ran out of time). Fortunately, I didn’t miss the larger-than-life Rodin bronzes that greet visitors at the Museum’s entrance. The Norton Simon is open daily except Tuesday. Hours are noon to 6pm (they’re open late on Fridays, till 9pm). There is a well-stocked museum store that can accommodate all price ranges and ages. Bring the kids – there’s a self-guided audio tour for families and adults for only $3. The Museum provides more info at its website, www.nortonsimon.org. Phone: 626/449-6840