Each ghat has its own character and its own religious significance. You have to be very determined to walk the whole stretch in one go - not because it's hard going, but because there is so much to distract you on the way. The Dashaswamedh Ghat, for example, is the most popular and populous ghat on the river. It is one of the most important tirthas in the Hindu religion. This is a place where devotees can have direct communion with the deities, and at Dashaswamedh Ghat, it is through ritual ablutions that this is achieved. The steps immediately next to the water are packed with pilgrims, not only bathing and throwing floral offerings into the river, but collecting river water in plastic bottles. Brightly coloured flags flutter from tall poles along the banks, temple bells sound with no particular rhythm, pilgrims sit in groups singing, and holy men chant monotonously on platforms set into the steps. Above all this can be heard the shouts of boatmen touting for business and the shrill voices of children selling postcards. The river itself flows slowly northwards, its surface covered in an oily sheen speckled with rotting flower petals. Plastic bags and less identifiable objects litter the steps closest to the waterside. On the terrace close to the river edge sit masseurs, souvenir vendors, beggars, and a disproportionately high number of people with bathroom scales offering to weigh you for R5. I was also slightly bemused by the sadhu, smeared in ash and complete with loin cloth, who approached me with his alms tin outstretched whilst talking on his mobile phone.

Along the sides and at the top of the steps are numerous stalls selling floral garlands, incense cones, flags, and prayer beads. The whole scene is a riot of colour and activity that can be viewed at leisure from the chai stall halfway up the ghat. Continuing northwards, you will eventually reach Manikarnika Ghat, the principal cremation ghat. Beware of the odious touts who offer to find you a good place to take photos. This is a no-no, and not only do you risk offending the mourners, but could attract hostile reactions as well. Interesting, though, that you can buy postcards of cremations! In between the busiest ghats are wonderful, quiet stretches of terrace where it's possible to sit and appreciate the river in peace.