"Where else can you find so many good things in such a small place!"--Goethe
The poet was referring to Weimar, but anyone visiting Goethe’s Gartenhaus knows he felt the same about his garden overlooking the Park an der Ilm. The house was his first, bought when he was young and had not yet made much money. He and his wife lived there until he could afford the more impressive home am Frauenplan 1, but they loved Gartenhaus so much (and gardening and minerals) that they never sold it. It became part of the romance of the poet's life and Weimar.
We turned right from the Hotel Elephant door and walked past the large restoration
underway just past the Elephant. The sidewalk led us to the beautiful Park an der Ilm, where signs pointed the way to the steps and then the bridge to Goethe’s lovely garden. The walk wasn’t long, less than 10 minutes, but we should have allotted an hour for the park--it was large and lovely. Guides didn’t speak much English, and I was disappointed that we had paid 5 euro each to walk through the small house in 5 minutes without any narration to listen to. I thought, "If they had audio, they would have volunteered it," but I was wrong. My experience touring in Weimar the day before was that these sites didn’t have audio or didn’t have it in English. Ready to quit the house for the garden, I made earphone motions with my hands, and one guide responded by shaking his head "Yes." It was a 50-minute audio program that was wonderful! I listened to the details of Goethe’s career, his friends, gardening, family, how he handled his money. Touring in the eastern part of Germany was getting better! It was a good tour.
The house has two floors with gardening implements and sparse furnishings. The most
interesting piece of furniture is a high desk (the height of a podium) where Goethe liked
to write. In front of it is a high chair with a long narrow seat one can straddle. When he
worked at his high desk standing up, he could straddle the seat to take the weight off his
feet and so sit without bending his back--as I have been doing all day sitting at this
computer. Goethe appreciated the value of this chair--as I would now--so much that he
praised it in his writing until other people decided they would have to get one! He started
a movement popularizing the chair, which is actually a kind of stool one might expect to
see in the Bauhaus Museum. (Form follows function!)
The poet terraced the hillside, created attractive pebble walks, and planted ivy and flowers, everything from hostas to daffodils. Benches in secluded areas provide places to sit and enjoy the garden, as Goethe did.
Buses 1, 4, 6, and 8 run to the home from town. Like other attractions in Weimar, Gartenhaus is closed Tuesdays.