To appreciate the challenge facing archaeologists trying to restore jungle-devastated sites, visit the ruin called Tap Rohm, in the Angkor Thom area. This was once the mansion the king had built for his mother. Now, it’s an interesting demonstration why, to paraphrase a classic advertising line, "It isn’t nice to fool with Mother Nature."

The jungle reclaims its territory in two ways:

First, it attacks gaps in and between wall and foundation stones, penetrating them with tendrils that eventually expand enough to crack them open.

Secondly, the monsoon rains soften the ground enough for storm winds to blow heavy trees down onto the structure. Both types of damage are evident at Tap Rohm: note the tree growing through the roof in one of the photos below.

There are few conveniences for tourists here, with many high steps and uneven stone blocks to negotiate. A sturdy walking stick would have helped immensely in navigating the site.

For photographers, Tap Rohm is a fascinating study in light and shadow, especially in low morning or afternoon sunlight. (The photo of the tree through the roof would have been better had I brought a camera with a lens shade!)

Tap Rohm is a somewhat out-of-the-way site and you’ll probably need a guide to find it. But because it’s largely unrestored, and such a fascinating example of man’s work vs. the jungle, I highly recommend spending at least a half-hour here. . .maybe more. You’ll also need 10 minutes or so to walk in from the parking area.

When you leave, be prepared for. . .

The Sunset Syndrome

If you thought Siem Reap was too small a city to have traffic jams, visit the west portal of Angkor Wat at sunset! The temple’s main facade looks directly into the late-afternoon sun, and it seems as though every occupant of every hotel room in Siem Reap comes here to photograph it. And, many of the local families come to picnic at the side of the moat and enjoy the spectacle as the tourists click away. . .even when the odds of the clouds going away are slim to none.