Skagway retains the air of the frontier town of the gold fever Days of ‘98. Then prospectors faced the temptations of 80 saloons, the lure of painted ladies, and the quick fingers of gamblers and thieves, such as "Soapy" Smith and his ruthless gang, even before the dangers of the trail.
Buildings like the historic Arctic Brotherhood Hall, adorned with 20,000 pieces of driftwood, are the objects of many photos. Restored vintage 1936 to 1937 cars, complete with costumed conductors, tour the streets. These are a recreation of Alaska’s first tour company founded in 1923. Its first customer was President Warren G. Harding on his way to drive the "golden spike," marking completion of the Alaska Railroad.
We took a minibus tour through the town and up a winding road to a vantage point giving a clear view of the town. The Coral Princess lay at her berth. A cliff face portrayed a painting of a pocket watch. It was a common way of advertising, as rocky outcrops became denuded of trees as the town expanded.
We rode back into town and went into the Museum of ‘98. The museum contains a wide selection of Gold Rush artifacts and other items reflecting Skagway's colourful history. The impressive building with granite walls and a high-pitched roof standing among lofty trees on the edge of town began life as a short-lived Gold Rush-era college. It later became a federal courthouse and jail and now contains the city hall and museum.
We finished the tour by taking in The Day’s of ‘98 Show celebrating the town’s gold rush days of 1898. The show in the Eagle’s Hall performed by a cast of five dramatises the last day in the life of Skagway’s infamous resident, con artist Soapie Smith.
The scenes are set in Soapie’s saloon and the performance is in the 1890’s style. Soapy, a seriously bad guy with illegitimate con games, prostitution, and bars, doesn’t see himself in that light. By fleecing stampeders, he points out that he has saved lives, as these now-penniless folk have to return home rather than getting killed on the White Pass Trail. When Skagway became more civilized, its citizens decided it was time for Soapie to go. Vigilantes organized, and on his last day, Soapy starts drinking heavily and losing the plot. Gun in hand, he set out to face his tormentors. Frank Reed shot him dead, but also died after he lingered on for more than a week. Reed received a hero’s burial in Skagway cemetery. Smith lies a few meters away.
It’s a fun show. Soapie has been more or less turned into the good guy, with the song and dance numbers in the show offsetting the bloodletting. Members of the audience persuaded to take part danced the "Can Can" and added to the fun. They were brilliant! Entertainment-wise, it’s great, but it also tells the history of Skagway and Soapie Smith.