Petaloudes is one of those places that actually lives up to it’s guide book ratings. It is to be found inland in a large pine-wooded valley about 16 kilometers west of Afantou. The route there is winding and not for the faint-hearted driver.
Approaching the attraction from either direction, there are many free places to park, and leaving the car in whatever shade we could find, we paid our 2.20 euros each and entered the valley.
Every year, from late June to September, countless millions of Jersey Tiger Moths descend upon the valley, attracted by the humidity and shade of the wooded slopes and for the resin from the liquid amber trees that adorn the hillsides. We were here in mid-June, and already there was a great number of "butterflies" resting on the trees, their black and yellow wing-covers bristling in the very welcome light breezes that filter down through the valley.
There are designated stone walkways along the entire length of the valley with rustic hand rails on the steeper stretches. The stream tumbles down the centre, this being the only sounds other than the tourist chit-chat. The moths are very sensitive, and there are constant signs asking visitors not to shout, run, or use cell phones, as this upsets the reproductive cycle of the moths.
The woods are full of wildlife, and we saw goats, lizards, and countless species of birds and insects as we wandered around. Be aware that there are some pretty scary-looking flying insects here in the woods, but they will, generally speaking, leave you well alone if you don’t antagonise them. The water means that mosquitoes are also in abundance, so we sprayed with repellent before entering the valley and weren’t bitten.
We walked for maybe an hour or so until the path became very steep. Although the valley is covered by a dense canopy of amber and pine trees which keeps the sun out, the humidity was getting to us, so we decided to turn back the way we came and take refreshment at the decent-looking taverna by the entrance.
By now, several coaches had disgorged their passengers into the valley and we were glad that we’d decided to return to the car. There wasn’t a parking spot to be seen now, as we took a welcome drink and light snack at the very reasonably priced taverna, a large Diet Coke at 1.50 euros and a huge local goat-cheese-and-salami baguette at just 2 euros.
I would advise any potential visitors to arrive early or after 3pm to enjoy Petaloudes at it’s most peaceful. On weekends, it’s very popular with the local Greeks who come to picnic beneath its shady arbours. It opens at 8:30am through to sunset, May to September, and is just 2.20 euros to enter, while from March to April and in October, it's just 1.50 euros. Bear in mind, however, that at these times, there will be no butterflies to see.