From the village square in Asklipeio, look for the dirt track to the right signposted "kastro." Follow this torturous track for half a mile or so as it twists and turns up the mountainside until it levels out beside one of Rhodes’ ruined castles of The Knights of St John.
The castle commands an imposing view in all directions: south to the coast at Kiotari, north to the mountains, and on either side, the valleys from which any attacker would have to march through. It clings to a pinnacle of rock, sheer on all sides and similar in most respects to the castle at Monolithos (please see "A Day’s Drive…" journal), although not perched as high and without such dramatic panoramic views.
This is one of several knights’ castles on the island and is probably the most remote. Reasons for this are probably due to the fact that Kiotari was the original settlement on the coast, 5 miles away. Kiotari was constantly under threat from seafaring attack, and after one such sortie by Byzantine raiders, the entire village moved inland and to the perceived safety at Asklipeio.
The climb from the car park to the castle entrance is steep, over roughly hewn stone steps that have weathered away over the centuries, some almost at crumbling point. The castle is not maintained as such by the tourist authorities, and so is rather overgrown, with thistles and weeds up to waist height in places. You enter via a vaulted doorway and climb some further steps up to the battlements and the superb views to all compass points.
There are remains of old wells in the inner courtyard, plus deep, narrow holes in the floor, rather reminiscent of the "oubliettes" found elsewhere, where the offenders would be placed, feet first, and literally "forgotten" until they died of thirst and hunger.
Nothing is labelled up here, and there is nothing to show the visitor what they are looking at, but in some ways, this adds to the mystery and isolation of this ancient fortress. Crumbling walls, buttresses, and battlements indicate that it has been many centuries since the fabled knights occupied this garrison. Sheep and goats amble through the interior without a care in the world, their occasional bleating the only sound other than the warm, mountain breezes in this still, hot place.
The castle is a place to sit and ponder, for it is left to the visitor to conjure up images of how things might have been here back in the mists of time. I sat back on a stony seat, drank some water, and relaxed, picturing what the day-to-day life would have been like all those years ago.
I was awakened from my daydreams by a goat, intent on obtaining a free meal from my rucksack. I shared my bread with him and received no thanks as he wandered off sure-footedly across the crags, leaving me to make the steep climb back down to the village.