We have tossed all of our planned routes because of the strange hold that ancient Scotland has on us now. After we detoured to see the Maiden Stone and some standing stones from about 3,000 BC, we have been stopping at every ancient landmark we could find. The cairns, the brochs, all of them are sparks for the best dicussions about history, ancient peoples and events.

So we made our way, very slowly, to the northeast tip of Scotland. We first detoured on the B9176 to see the Edderton pictish symbol stone, which is located in an abandoned church graveyard. Among the tombs she sits, with her simply carved cross on one side, and a horseman on the other. We were back to the A9 headed to the coastal town of Dornoch, which the Blue Guide describes as delightful. It's definitely a quaint town, full of neat stone buildings, and we stopped to see Dornoch Cathedral. Built in the 12 century, it was destroyed and restored in the last 200 years. So much of what we saw was new, but it was still pretty, not at all huge or overwhelming. Some of the stained glass was in muted earthy tones to match the stonework, while some of it was bright blue and purple.

Next we took a detour west into the mountains to see some cairns and standing stones. It was a lovely drive along a winding single track road. Unfortunately, the ancient stones were badly weathered and in a private field. We decided to keep going on this minor road and eventually get to Duncansby Head, the NE tip of Scotland. We realized the gas tank was getting low, so we started looking for a petrol station, at 8pm on a Sunday before a bank holiday in the highlands. We passed through Thurso with no open station, and decided to stop for dinner.

After passing through two more small towns with BPs that were closed and deserted, we started to worry. We did not have enough fuel to get back to Inverness, and the town of Wick appeared to be our only hope. I was thinking about having to go door to door in search of someone with a gas can! We were nervous and making jokes about the sitation at the same time. At 8:53 we arrived at a petrol station in Wick, and I was astonished to see it was open. At about 10, with a little daylight left in the pouring rain, we stopped at Achavanich Standing Stones. They were on the side of the road with no markers, and the circle was huge. It had about 40 standing stones in the circle, and probably about 60 when it was created. We got out of the car in the cold windy rain for a better view, and the it was time for these two weary travelers to go home.

Today was one of the best days yet for me, as we headed away from Inverness on the A9. The far northwest of Scotland has some of the most beautiful and unique scenery I've ever seen. The mountains aren't necessarily huge, but they are so distinct, even differing from the other peaks in the highlands. The land is covered in grey rocks and brown heather, with very few trees. Many of these dark mountains rise high above shimmering, deep blue lochs. Sheep abound, some creeping across the single-track road with their lambs. We even saw two large red deer, one with huge antlers.

There is nothing like this land. In the far north, even the A class roads have only one lane. In some areas we drove for miles with no one around. We have driven much of Scotland now, and this morning I was beginning to wonder if we were so familiar with the land that we shouldn't bother with another scenic drive. But this is a country full of surprises. The drive from Inverness to Durness was one amazing scene after another, and I am so glad we went! I was infatuated with this romantic and wild country before, and now I'm realy smitten.

We took a boat tour into Smoo Cave for 3 pounds each. I had seen pictures of the waterfalls inside, but they weren't there, just a rock wall. Evidently the waterfall is only there during a heavy rain storm. The caves were attractively rugged though, and the local guide was very friendly. Climbing in and out of the boat was a challenge on the dark, wet rocks. Next we drove over the Kylesku Bridge, where I got out and walked alone in heaven. There's no way I could describe the scenery!

We traveled on to Balnakeil Bay. Who would have thought that the north of Scotland would have such a lovely, sandy beach? And it was so sunny and warm, probably 75 degrees. I just can't believe the sunshine we have had. When I studied in England, there were so many cloudy days. This trip has just been a dream come true. Tomorrow we will leave our cheap lodging for a two day delight in a 5 star B&B. They will serve us full breakfasts and diners! Ahh, a break from cereal and pasta.