Petra

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Ben the Grate
Ben the Grate
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

A Magical Place Hidden in the Moutains

  • September 25, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by garymarsh6 from Gravesend, United Kingdom
A Magical Place Hidden in the Moutains

Petra

Not the Blue peter variety but a world heritage site. An ancient city hidden in the middle of the mountains in Jordan. Having read a previous review on Dooyoo I could never do it the same justice as all the information you need is there. However I would like to share my opinions on this magically mysterious place and encourage you to visit yourselves to marvel at the wanders that it beholds. It was built around 100 BC by the Nabataeans and only recently discovered in 1812. Petra has recently been named one of the new wonders of the modern world.

After a two and a half hour bus trip from the coastal town of Aqaba via the mountainous route we finally descended from the swirling freezing clouds via the meandering and twisting clinging roads of the mountains down into the Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) to reach the entrance of Petra where there are toilet facilities which you would be strongly advised to take advantage of before entering Petra as there are no toilet facilities within Petra itself.

It cost approximately £15 to go in for the day and for another £5 it gave us an entry ticket for another day.

There is a horse rescue centre here and horses can be hired with a handler to walk you down to the entrance of the SIQ approximately a kilometre. The Siq is a natural narrow channel cut deep into the mountains which you have to walk down to reach the town of Petra. Some parts of the Siq are about 30 Meters high and in places only about 3 meters wide and in total it is about 1 KM to reach the end. You are shaded from the sun due to the high sided cliffs. It feels incredibly chilly when walking down the Siq as the wind cuts up the channel with some ferocity at times. Some horse and carts race up and down taking passengers to and fro at deathly speeds on the uneven and at times cobbled path.

It is a wander how the city was ever discovered as it is very well hidden from view. High up in the mountains and one can catch the odd glimpse of the caves and forum but once down in the valleys it is amazing how anyone ever found it.

Walking down the sandstone Siq the changes in shape and colour of the cliffs are truly stunning ranging from Yellow to pink and lovely red & brown hues. The shape of the Siq varies too after thousands of years of weather erosion making some interesting shapes and structures. They built channels in the rock face to help bring water to the city and also to prevent flooding and they are clearly visible at certain points down the Siq. You can also see carved into the rocks camels and drovers about three quarters of the way down.

The most famous and exciting view of all time awaits you as you near the end of the Siq. A slight glimmer of the treasury comes into view at the opening of the Siq continue to walk to reach the end and the magnificent structure of the treasury greets you across the main square. This is the most amazing and breath taking sight to see. The treasury building was carved out of the side of the sandstone mountain and has columns and other decorative works.

Turning right walking past various other dwellings and tombs you reach a massive amphitheatre where there are steps carved into the side of the mountain to reach the monastery. Most of the amphitheatre is still intact. Continuing down there are even more amazing buildings carved into the mountain side.

There is a roman area which has some massive columns and a colonnaded walkway and cobbled paths which were specifically designed in an arched fashion for the water to drain off into channels on either side which was carried off to a small reservoir and dam. There is a massive roman forum area where all the citizens would have met once a week for important announcements and for entertainment.

There are remains of roman temples dotted around and the remains of a Byzantine church with beautiful mosaics still intact. There is a font for baptism which was unique in that it was situated outside the church as it was not possible to enter the church unless you had been baptised. This was quite high up on top of a very high hill. Four massive columns remain inside the ruins of the church.

This was one of the highlights of our tour of Jordan and is well worth a visit. You can let your imagination run riot here as it is peaceful and calm and think about how they used to live here. Infact how on earth they actually built this place with such primitive tools is amazing.

We also toured another site about 15 Kms away called Little Petra. It is very similar but on a much smaller scale. The Siq again is hidden in the rocks and is only about 1 meter wide and about 10 meters long. Once through the Siq there are buildings carved out of the rocks but they are not as spectacular as Petra itself. In one of the banqueting halls there are some very intricate paintings on the ceiling. It is not as popular as Petra but there are still quite a few buildings and caves to explore.


My opinion.

Would I recommend a visit? Absolutely but I would say that you would need a degree of agility and no major mobility problems as there is quite a bit of walking on uneven surfaces. Good walking shoes are essential. It is a beautiful site to visit and the colours and shear size of the place is awesome. It is a shame I can not share my photos with you but they are absolutely brilliant.

How to get here.

Fly to Amman with Royal Jordanian airlines. Petra is about two to three hours from Amman.

Accommodations: There is plenty of accommodation near to the entrance of Petra ranging from cheap and cheerful to more exclusive hotel accommodation.There are also armed tourist police outside most of the larger hotels.

From journal Wonderful Jordan

Editor Pick

A New Wonder of the World - Unmissable!

  • September 16, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by karly07 from Belfast, United Kingdom
A New Wonder of the World - Unmissable!

One of the many places we visited whilst in the Middle East this summer was the wonderous site of Petra in Jordan. Many people will already be familiar with some of the sights of Petra due to it featuring in one of the indiana jones films, however, it was our guide book that drew our attention to this place, with now claims a place as one of the new wonders of the world.

Petra is located about 4 hours drive from the Jordanian capital of Amman, and there are plenty of lodgings and eateries in Wadi Musa, the little town beside the entrance to Petra.

Petra is a Nabataen dead city, showcasing this ancient civilisation and their skillful impressive labour in the monuments that remain carved into the sandstone rock within Petra.

Arriving at the entrance gate to Petra, you have the option of tickets, depending on how many days you have. We arrived late afternoon and were staying until the following day, so it was necessary to purchase a 2 day pass. Passes up to 4 days are available. Our 2 day pass cost us 26 Jordanian Dinar each (around £25 per person). The park closes around 7pm - 7.30pm in the summer season, so we didn't feel we got our money's worth the first day since we arrived at 4.30 in the afternoon, however we made up for lost time the following day.

On our first trip into Petra we hadn't realised just how lengthy the initial trek in to the siq and beyond was. It took us approximately 45 minutes to reach the first main sight - the Treasury, at the end of the siq, but it was worth it. The afternoon, and early morning are the best times to see Petra due to way the shadow falls on the sandstone rock, and we were certainly impressed.

The siq is the ancient main entrance to the site, and is 1200m in length. It takes you through a narrow sandstone cliffs, and if like my husband you are interested in geology, you will be in your element admiring the formations and water channels cut into the cliffs. Horse drawn carriages are available from near the entrance gate of Petra to the Treasury for a fee, and we were pleased to see that the Brooke charity had a base inside Petra to give the horse being used shade, rest and water throughout the day.

As you approach the end of the siq, you start to get a glimpse of the famous Treasury, one of the best preserved carved structures in Petra. This wonderful structure was carved in the 1st century BC as a tomb for one of the Nabataen kings, however it served other purposes in later years. Although the outside decor of the treasury is breath taking, the inside is rather plain, with little carvings, and only the beautiful natural colours of hte sandstone to look at. We only managed to see this on our first visit before the park closed.

We did get another different look at the Treasury when we opted to take the 'Petra by night' excursion, which runs on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 8.30. The walk into the Treasury, including the siq are lit only by candlelight. It is a very peaceful and romantic thing to do when you visit Petra, and you are rewarded when you arrive at the treasury with some Jordian music and tea by candlelight. Highly recommended!!

The following day we went back for a better look and to go beyond the treasury. The park opens early about 6.30 (I think!) and we were entering Petra by about 7.30 that morning. Ideal because there were less crowds, nice shadows on the rocks, and most importantly a little cooler (if that is possible in the summer months in Jordan).

Beyond the treasury we then walked through the outer siq, much shorter in length, before approaching the Street of Facades, and then the theatre. The Street of Facades is simply rows of Nabataean tombs, some with intricate carvings. The theatre is more impressive, and resembles that of those built by the romans, a factor influencing of Nabataeans in the 1st century AD.

Beyond the theatre you will by inspired by the array of Royal Tombs carved into the cliff rock face. Again, it is the outside of these tombs that are the must see. Inside, the tombs are plain with nothing much to see. Some of the most impressive tombs are the Urn Tomb, which is the largest and holds its own courtyard, and the palace tomb, which unfortunately has been badly eroded over the years.

The last of the main sights that we had time to see on our 2 day visit, was the colonnaded street, which led to the main city centre at one time. The street was once home to shops, houses and even a temple, which you can still walk around today.

If you have more time in Petra, and can endure the intense dry summer heat, you can take a donkey ride (or climb!) the 800 steps to the monastery or even the high place of sacrifice.

We felt however that we got to see as much of Petra as we could and were able to come away with a greater understanding of this ancient civilisation and an appreciation for thier craftmanship and practical skills.

Petra really is a wonderful place to visit, and like no other I have seen. It is hard to really understand its beauty until it is right before you. I would suggest that if you are visiting in the summer months like us, you take at least 2 big bottles of water with you (believe me you will drink it all), a protective sun hat, sun cream, and some food, and there are only a few eating places in the site. Be aware also that the Bedouin people that offer the donkey rides as well as having jewellery stalls etc inside Petra will hound you throughout your visit. We found the best approach was to simply to shake your head 'no' when you weren't interested, and then they didn't know if you spoke english, and those left you somewhat more alone. It is sad however to watch children as young as 3 or 4 trying to sell things to you, or hit donkeys with metal rods. I found this particularly hard to take, but the further side of Petra appears to be run by the Bedouin, and the animals are not cared for by the Brooke charity, like the horses at the entrance.

However, all in all Petra deserves its title as a new wonder of the world, and is certainly worth visiting Jordan alone for, as I doubt you will see anything like it again!

From journal An unforgettable independent trip to Israel and Jordan

Editor Pick

Petra - What Everyone Sees, part 2

  • February 19, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Ben the Grate from Dallas, Texas
Petra - What Everyone Sees, part 2

After leaving The Khasneh, it's a delightful stroll down the ever widening canyon past hundreds of carved facades and temples (even a Roman amphitheatre!) into the main Petra Valley.

You'll pass a row of giant monuments high on the canyon wall to your right called The Royal Tombs. Take the path up and visit them. Then back down into the canyon toward the center of Petra.

You'll see the ruins of the Qasr al Bint, a massive temple constructed of quarried stone. If you poke around inside, you just might find a hidden staircase that will lead you high up to a balcony inside the temple.

Outside the Qasr, the cliff face is cluttered with carved temples, and you can follow the signs up some steps to a small but fascinating museum.

Also near the Qasr is an APPALLINGLY modern building, The Forum Basin Cafe, where you can purchase an overpriced meal. If you didn't bring lunch from Valentine's, I would suggest that you avoid the Forum at all costs, in favor of the Bedouin tent restaurant just across the path. Here, for about $5JD in the winter, you can get a sumptuous buffet, or just some hot tea to warm your cold bones.

At this point you are at the end of the regularly tromped tourist path, and if you've had a leisurly stroll, you'll probably make it back to the gates in time to get picked up by Valentine's complimentary shuttle at 5pm. The way back out is the way you came in.

And you will have seen all the major sights of Petra (save one)!

The hike back out is uphill the entire way (though you didn't notice it coming in) and you'll be panting by the time you reach the Visitor's Center. Perhaps you'll break down and hire a camel to take you home...

Beware on this hike of local guides. They can be of enormous benefit, or of infinite annoyance. If you've got a copy of The Rough Guide, or if you purchased a book at the Visitor's Center, you DO NOT NEED A GUIDE to visit most of Petra's sights unless you're just totally incompetent with maps. A polite "No thanks" usually turns these hopefuls away, sometimes you must say it twice to get them off your back.

You'll be approached by Bedouins (the local wandering peoples who live in caves) who will offer to sell you everthing from jewelry to antiquities. If they show you pretty old coins and ask a hefty sum, be aware that they're fakes. The only way I learned was after hard bargaining for an ancient Crusader amulet, all rusty and sharp, with Greek letters on the back. It wasn't until I had forked over about $25 and sat down to take a closer look that I noticed it had carved on it, plain as day, a Western-style house with a chimney... They had those in 400 AD???

From journal Petra-fied

Editor Pick

Petra - What Everyone Sees, part 1

  • February 19, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Ben the Grate from Dallas, Texas
Petra - What Everyone Sees, part 1

Seeing Petra means hiking, and there's literally no way around it. If you're averse to hiking, it IS possible to hire a camel or a donkey to take you into the main area (you'll actually be hounded every instant in the main area by boys leading camels shouting "Taxi, taxi?"). But, while novel, a camel can't take you everywhere.

The trail begins at the Visitor's Center, where you are handed a nice map with your entry fee. Keep your entry ticket on your person, as you may be asked to produce it by park rangers later on.

Walking down the broad path, you immediately enter a bizarre landcape of eroded white domes, and you'll notice a few small monuments carved into little canyons on the right.

Eventually you'll come to the first big Petra monument which perfectly personifies Petra's bizarre history.

It is actually two separate monuments carved, one above the other. The lower monument is obviously of European influence with columns and arches. The monument above is obviously Egyptian influenced, with pyramid-like obelisks gracing the facade. This is Petra in a nutshell. A conglomeration of architectural and cultural influences ranging from the far East to the Roman empire.

After this, you approach the entrance to The Siq, the narrow twisting canyon that is the primary access route into Petra. As you enter the canyon, the wind (and possibly rain) and noise of the outside world are shut out, and you walk along a path sometimes paved with modern cement, sometimes paved with ancient flagstones from the Nabatean empire, and your voice and footsteps echo off the walls.

The hike through the Siq lasts about a mile, and with each turn of the path, the canyon walls get higher and narrowed, finally narrowing so much that you can almost touch each wall with your oustreched hands.

Then, your eyes become confused for a second, and then they pop out of your head as you see a jagged slit of brilliant pink floating in a crack before you.

This is Petra's most shocking experience. It literally reaches out and slaps you across the face.

Here, the Siq spits you out into a larger canyon, and there, perfectly preserved, stands The Khasneh al Faroun (Pharoah's treasury). After you get over the shock of the fairy-tale journey you've just taken, you'll recognize it as the temple where Indiana Jones found the Holy Grail.

If it's cold, stop and have a glass of delicious Bedouin tea at the tent and warm your hands by the fire as you gaze at this breathtaking monument, carved into the solid rock 200 feet high. Scholars date this temple to the 2nd century AD, though there is some dispute. No other monument in Petra is as well preserved, as ornate, and as moving as The Khasneh.

Spend some time here. It's a magical spot.

(please see Part 2 for the rest)

From journal Petra-fied

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