More than any other feature, the Creek epitomizes Dubai in the minds of Gulf residents. This is where the emirate originated. This once shallow estuary gave Dubai fishermen, pearl divers, and merchants a base of operations; traders and smugglers from here plied the waters of the Gulf and the Arabian Sea, some venturing as far as the coast of East Africa. And however sophisticated, glitzy, and high-tech Dubai becomes, the booms and small trading vessels still tie up here. Walking along the splendid corniche that has been built along its shores, you’re as apt to hear conversation in Malayalam, Tamil, Singhala, or Farsi as in Arabic. Vessels come in loaded with teak logs, rice, and spices from the Indian Subcontinent, and leave again with (often gray-market) consumer electronics, tobacco products, and who-knows-what-else. Even today, there is still a lot of smuggling that goes on, mostly cigarettes and consumer electronics headed for Iran, which still imposes fairly hefty duties on such goods. Some say there are weapons that come in and out this way, too, though proof of that is hard to come by, of course. In any event, the men who man these small teak vessels have many a story to relate, no doubt.
But there is much more to attract the visitor than the sight of all these boats. Hotels, restaurants, and cafes line the Corniche, especially on the Deira Dubai side of the waterway. The museums are here, the tourist boats are here, and so are the funny little water taxis, known locally as abras. For a princely 50 fils (or half a dirham) you can cross from Deira to Bur Dubai on vessels that look pretty flimsy, but which rarely have accidents. There are no railings, just a gunwale a few inches high; there aren’t even any cushions. However, this is the cheapest and most pleasant way of crossing the Creek. Indeed, you can, if you like, engage one of the vessels to take you on your own little cruise up and down the Creek for just a few dollars, certainly the cheapest way to enjoy one of the world’s more exotic port cities at night. And night, indeed, is the time to come, especially if you’re there between March and mid-October when the temperature and humidity levels can be truly brutal. The lights and the stars reflecting off the Creek are a sight to behold. Don’t miss stopping for at least a coffee and maybe a shisha (water pipe) along the way. My favorite spot, on the Bur Dubai bank of the Creek, more or less opposite Etisalat’s (Dubai’s telcom company) ultra-modern offices is Fatafeet, Arabic for “crumbs”, where you’ll get some of the best humous and kebabs in town at a price anyone can afford.