Johnston Canyon Hike

Mrs. J
First Reviewer
4 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
5
Reviews
24
Photos
Editor Pick

Even in Winter, a Must-do

  • February 26, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by callen60 from Ozarks, Missouri
Even in Winter, a Must-do

This is the most popular outdoor experience in Banff National Park: a million people will visit each year. Although most will obviously come in the summer months, you quite likely won’t be completely alone here during a winter visit, unless you arrive early. Frozen canyons like this are a popular cold weather outing up and down the Rockies, but even so, chances are that you’ll have this pretty place to yourself for healthy stretches of time.

The canyon runs nearly straight north, and the trail heads up the far side after a short jaunt west from the parking lot. Johnston Canyon Resort lies right on this edge, and we passed their souvenir store and shuttered ice cream stand, both of which must do land rush business in the summer time. There are actually seven sets of waterfalls here, but most visitors will see only two. It’s an easy hike (1.1 km) to the lower falls, with a very modest elevation gain of 30 m. Here and throughout the canyon the trail is often on catwalks anchored to the side of the canyon. It’s a really nice walk through the trees, sometimes on the canyon’s edge, sometimes hanging out over the canyon’s walls. Given the number of people that make this hike each year, the trail is safe and wide at all places.

It was a mild, calm winter day when we set out. The skies were grey but not dark, and the canyon was well lit under the even light. Smaller streams spilled in intermittently along the walls, one frozen in a beautiful angel-shaped pile of blue ice. The river still ran beneath the spectacular ice formations, occasionally visible through open sections in the layers of ice, which had a beautiful layer-cake structure on the edges.

Pretty soon, the canyon reaches a depth of few dozen meters, and varies from 10 to 30 meters across. We reached the lower falls in 30 minutes or so, taking our time as we headed up the broad trail. Here, the canyon narrows, and the trail stops on the western edge with a nice view across the pool, the falls, and the enclosing rock faces. A short spur crosses the river and through a small, short tunnel that emerges on a small platform facing the falls from just a short distance away. From here, you could easily see the water running underneath the intricate frozen surface and emerging into the uncovered pool. In summertime, this location would have covered us would spray, but staying dry was fine with us.

Back across the river, the trail climbed steeply back to the top of the canyon via a series of switchbacks. Another 90 meters of elevation takes place between the lower and upper falls, and sizeable piece of that happens right here. We decided to forego that climb and the mile-long hike, and enjoy the trail back to the parking area before heading to Lake Louise.

Several firms lead tours to Johnston Canyon, charging $50-$60 per person. For that fee you get transportation, a guide, and strap-on cleats (and perhaps a hiking pole) to help with covering the ice at the upper falls. I wouldn’t think of paying for a tour unless I needed transportation, even if heading onto the Upper Falls. Some friends we made during the dogsled ride made the hike to the upper canyon on their own and got along fine without the cleats. If you want to hike on the ice, you could purchase a fair for under $20.

I wouldn’t think of paying $50 (or more) for a guided tour: Johnston Canyon is easy to reach from Banff, and the strap-on cleats and poles that some tours provide aren’t needed. Some friends we made while dogsledding took our advice (even before we’d visited); when we met them two days later at the Chateau Lake Louise, they concurred.

Directions
Entrance to the canyon is on the east side of the Bow Valley Parkway, just south of Castle Junction. You could take the more scenic ride out the Parkway from Banff, or get off Canada 1 at Castle Junction and then head south for a few kilometers. Either way, be careful on the Parkway: it’s reasonably cared for in the wintertime, but the snow hides a very narrow shoulder. A second of inattention near the road’s edge led me to drift too far right, and my tire fell off the road surface. I couldn’t get it back, and seconds later we were stuck. Thanks to the kindness of a number of people, a jeep extracted us from the snow long before CAA was able to reach us with a tow truck.

From journal Winter in Canada's Rockies

A Nice Walk Almost Anyone of Any Age Can Do

  • August 13, 2008
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SouthbayJ from San Jose, California
A Nice Walk Almost Anyone of Any Age Can Do

We took this walk in the winter. Most resorts and many stores have pamphlets on the tours that can take you here, and I recommend using them (At least in the winter),
If you are driving there: From the Norquay Interchange drive west 5.5 km on the Trans-Canada Highway and take the Bow Valley Parkway (1A Highway). Drive along this road 18 km to Johnston Canyon parking lot.

We went in a large van from Banff and they supplied the cleets to walk the trail. The views are awe inspiring! There are safety rails, and well marked trails. To walk to both the lower and upper waterfalls will take you a couple of hours.

From journal WorldMark Resort at Canmore

Johnston Canyon Hike

  • July 15, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by s2artr from Woodland Hills, California
It is a short easy hike to the lower falls on a paved trail. The falls are beautiful. There is even a tunnel you can walk through to get a view very close to the base of the falls. Beware of the mist and slippery rocks near the falls. Protect your cameras.

The trail to the upper falls is more demanding and will take more energy with an uphill climb but you will be rewarded with the view of three falls flowing into one pool, which is gorgeous.

From journal Banff National Park

Johnston Canyon Hike

  • January 24, 2003
  • Rated 3 of 5 by tcarstensen from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Johnston Canyon Hike

Johnston Canyon is a beautiful hiking trail. You follow the river most of the way and end at a gorgeous waterfall. The trail itself is very easy to travel.

During the summer the path is always busy with tourists. The best time to go is in late spring and early summer. There is still some ice left, but the river and falls are flowing nicely. The sound of running water is very relaxing. During this time there are also fewer people to ruin the serenity.

From journal Summer in Banff

Editor Pick

Johnston Canyon Hike

  • October 14, 2000
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Mrs. J from austin, Texas
The trail was easy enough for my active 71-year-old mother and my 3-year-old daughter. It follows a raging creek/river the entire way and at times you are on a narrow catwalk almost in the river except for the iron railings. Very exciting! Reminded me of some of the waterfall hikes in Yosemite. Very popular trail, so don't expect solitude. Almost a river of people going up and down it in the summer. Still, the scenery is so dramatic and the reward at the end of the first trail section so surprising, that it's worth the shoulder brushing.

The NEAT thing is that at the end of the first section there is a small tunnel entrance. It is very wet and the ceiling is dripping. As you enter it you can hear this sound of water thundering. When you get to the exit you see an 8-foot wide by 8-foot high opening and hear roaring water. As you approach and exit the opening, you see that you are standing on a ledge within a sort of rock tube.

The river is pouring down the opposite side of the tubular canyon, about six feet in front of you--so you get very wet. People had to take turns standing there in pairs to look at it because of the small area. Most people didn't have rain ponchos and didn't stand there more than a few seconds. We had our ponchos and enjoyed a few minutes before we felt like we were being selfish with the experience and relinquished it to the people behind us. In all the park guides there is no mention of this spectacular aspect of the trail. They just say it's a trail that follows a river with 'boiling inkpots' along the way.

From journal Banff with kids

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