Costa Caparica (pronounced kappa-reek-ah)is the best beach close to Lisbon. It’s a fabulously long wide white beach stretching as far as the eye can see from the town of Costa da Caparica. There is a little railway that runs part of the way down the start of the beach so you can rest your feet, and then walk still further away from people once you get to the end of the line. Supposedly each of the 20 or so stops attracts a different crowd of people. I’ve never really noticed a difference, apart from the nudist stretch around stop 17, with naked bodies hiding in the dunes. Starting from the town, the beach is at its busiest and also doubling as a fishing boat park, further along the dunes start and the beach gets quieter, and at the end of the railway line only halfway down the whole stretch of sand the beach is almost deserted. I’ve spent many a Sunday, from May through to October, stretched out all day just enjoying the sounds of nature.
Because it is a fabulous beach, so close to Lisbon, the place is incredibly busy in mid summer, although from the end of the mini railway line you’ll always be almost on your own. From late morning on summer weekends the bridge over the Tejo is tailed back with Lisboetas heading out to get their beach fix.
There is an express bus from the centre of Lisbon (you’ll have to check with the tourist office, as although I can picture it I can’t remember where it is for the life of me!) from June to September, which is a painless way to get to the beach mid-week (apart from August). During busy August, summer weekend, and out of season, it is equally enjoyable to take the bright orange ferry from Praca do Commercio to Cacilhas watching the Lisbon’s skyline and then pick up a local bus from the bus station just outside Cacihas ferry terminal.