From a distance it looks fragile and almost dainty – a bit like a kitsch wedding cake – but close up, the amazing Torre de Belem unveils its true military purpose. It was built in 1520 by Manuel I as part of a defense system to protect the River Tagus estuary from naval attacks.
The Torre de Belem is a prime example of Manueline architecture confirming that military buildings can be both functional and beautiful. Close up, it is surprisingly small but so were the ships during the discoveries and with its full contingent of 17 cannons, it must have been a formidable fortress.
The Torre consists of a square main tower and a polygonal bastion as base. The first level is a vaulted dungeon where the cannons were kept. On the second level, the action is mostly outdoors and provides the best vantage points to admire the Manueline decorations of the main tower as the decorated façade faces the sea and not the mainland. The coat of arms of Manuel is above the Italian inspired loggia. The interior of the main tower is mostly bare making the view of the Tagus River and the Golden Gate-like Bridge of 25 April the main reason for climbing the spiral stairs. The spiral stairs get rather narrow higher up and it may be less pleasant on a busy day.
The Torre was traditionally the departure point for seafarers departing on voyages of discovery and a statue of the virgin and child – Our Lady of Safe Homecoming – is on the second level facing the waters. The Roman Catholic influences are also evident in battlements decorated with the cross of the Order of Christ and the top floor of the tower used to be a chapel.
However, the overwhelming impression of the Torre as a whole is Moorish with Arabic influences dominating the design. The architect, Francisco de Arruda, previously worked in Morocco and clearly got some inspiration from there. This is especially noticeable in the melon-shaped domes of the sentry posts as well as the stone carved rope that encircle the building and decorations of lion heads and pyramids.
The Torre de Belem used to be on a small island towards the right bank of the River Tagus from where it could provide crossfire with the Sao Sebastiao de Caparica fortress on the left bank. Nowadays only a special dam ensures that you actually have to cross water by gangway to reach the entrance from the north shore – the result of land reclamation projects in the nineteenth century.
In its almost half a millennium of existence, the Torre has served many roles from defensive bastion to customs house, jail and telegraph station. Currently, its main purpose is a tourist destination although it is also used during official state visits to Portugal. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, which should help to ensure its preservation despite the best efforts of modern day pollution.