This museum was custom-built to house the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian. It is a lovely building set in lovely grounds, and the collection ranges from ancient Greek coins and busts, through great art treasures purchased from the Hermitage after the Russian revolution, to a room full of Lalique furniture and jewelry. It is small enough not to overwhelm, with such a wide-ranging collection that there is something to please everyone (and a lot to please most!)
Calouste Gulbenkian, whom I (and apparently many others) had never heard of, is called 'Mr. 5 percent.' He negotiated deals between oil-producing states and big oil companies in the beginning of the 20th century, and got 5% of everything. Turned out to be a good deal for him, and he used much of his money to acquire beautiful things. Late in life, he moved to Portugal and left his art to a foundation he created, in exchange for a promise to build a museum to house it.
The museum is never crowded, though the cafeteria always is, and it remains my favorite place in all of Lisbon. It is not, however, typically Portuguese, nor is its art; it is cosmopolitan, and could be anywhere in the world. It is a great place to spend an afternoon, with lots of benches for resting and simply relaxing and enjoying the beautiful and peaceful surroundings.