Igreja de Sao Vincente de Fora

Jose Kevo
Jose Kevo
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

Igreja and Monasterio de Sao Vicente de Fora

  • May 16, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by roza4 from Cinnaminson, New Jersey
Igreja and Monasterio de Sao Vicente de Fora

Phone: 21 882 44 00
Open: Tues-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-12:30pm and 3pm-5pm
Monastery entrance costs 4 euros for adults, 2 euros for students under 25 years of age

Imposing white stone façade with two tall bell towers can be seen from pretty much anywhere in the old part of the city especially from the walls of Castelo de Sao Jorge. The church has a very beautiful altar with two gilded columns supporting a large baldacchino with statues of goddesses on top and sides. Behind is baroque gilded organ on beautifully carved balcony. On each side of the altar there is a chapel with painted baroque columns with gilded floral motifs and rays of sun and angels at the top. Christ and Mary are facing each other inside the chapels. Tall cupola above the altar with royal coat of arms in the center is a sight. Santissimo Sacramento chapel, located on the left hand side near the altar, has "Last Supper" painting with finely carved gold fabric draping around the painting in the middle and angels out of plaster on the sides of it looking at you, beautiful iron gates with intricate ironwork lead into that chapel. All the remaining chapels are not lit, however they very much remind of the Santissimo Sacramento chapel.

Entrance to the monastery is to the right of the church. There are two floors with large ceiling frescoes and a beautiful colonnade of polychrome marble inlay and banister of Brazilian wood in one of the rooms. There is an exposition of 16th-century Flemish paintings. The cloisters of the monastery have rather plain white walls laid out with blue and white azulejos as are the staircases. They show everyday life of nobles. However the most important ones are azulejos of 38 La Fontaine’s fables on exposition along with the fables text in several languages. They are very witty and extremely interesting to read.

There is also the Pantheon of the house of Braganca with tombs of the Portuguese monarchs including the tomb of king Manuel II –- the last king of Portugal who died in exile -- and a tomb of Carlos I with a striking marble figure of grieving woman (the king was assassinated).

From journal Travels in Portugal - The Best of Lisbon - Part II

Editor Pick

Best Hidden Secret -Igreja de Sao Vincente de Fora

  • March 20, 2001
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
Best Hidden Secret -Igreja de Sao Vincente de Fora

Touring European cities often leads to "church overload". Lisbon also has its fair share, but make sure to include Igreja de São Vincente de Fora. It's more than could be expected, though one would never know that without venturing inside.

Completed in 1627 to honor St. Vincent, the city's patron saint, that's him in stone keeping watch over the central entrance. He also waits in life-sized wooden form to the left, once entering the nave. For all the ornate detail found in most Cathedrals, appeal of São Vincente is lack of embellishments. Bare walls tower over the backless pews which line unpretentious hardwood floors, scuffed smooth over centuries.

While the main church is free to explore, there's a small admission for entering the Cloisters; easily missed, or skipped as yet "another" like during my first visit. For all the humble highlights of the main Cathedral, the remainder is what categorizes this as Lisbon's Best Kept Secret.

A separate entrance, to right of the Cathedral, leads into the Cloisters where walls are adorned with 18th Century azulejo murals, illustrating the fables of La Fontaine. Familiarity with his tales (which I wasn't) should only increase appreciation, but these are hardly extent of what waits.

Refectory of the church was something to marvel, loaded with frescoed walls and ceilings. Various areas contain ornate burial vaults of the Bragança Dynasty, which ruled Portugal during the 1640 independence from Spain to the early 20th century. In largest room to the rear, don't miss or suddenly be spooked by the stone figure kneeling in prayer at the tomb of Carlos I.

There's also a second level of the Cloisters, containing more azulejo murals. However, find the obscure series of stairs/passageways for accessing roof of the Cathedral, which is the real highlight!

Spectacular overviews of the Cloisters trail off towards terra cotta sprawls lining the Tagus river. Vantage points are better to the rear, including Santa Engrácia National Pantheon. Vertically challenged people will have problems seeing over the wall, but here's something for those not "short-changed" on seeking adventure.

Where Cathedral dome bulges in center of the roof, notice service steps ascending to the pinnacle. With no one watching, I gingerly scaled the top and played lightning rod as a storm approached. Even without wet slippery conditions, wind gusts certainly upped the challenge; accomplishing the "forbidden" more satisfying than the views.

-- The church remains open, but Cloisters are closed between 12:30-3pm. "Fora" indicates it was built outside the original city. This, and the Pantheon, are a short, worth-while meander while visiting the Alfama and Castelo de São Jorge.

-- Continental agendas are to thank for this classic. After Spain's reinvasion of Portugal in 1580, the staunch Catholics were looking to further squelch Moorish Muslim influence. King Phillip II turned to Rome. Felipe Terzi, architectural genius of Italian Renaissance, was commissioned to load the city with churches. São Vincente is by far his most impressive contribution.

From journal Lisbon's New Age of Discovery

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