When we went to the Castelo we encountered an unexpected hitch. The famed #28 tram abruptly arrived at a leafy square that was still BELOW the Castelo. Everyone got off, including us. We then saw the tram driver move forward to another track and call on his cell phone. We speculated the driver had sensed the tram wasn’t operating well and would not be able to navigate the steep hill still ahead. Luckily we met a taxi driver who understood we wanted to go to the "Castelo." Five minutes later we were at the entrance gate and my husband paid the driver $5.00. True-taxis are cheap in Lisbon unless you meet a dishonest driver like the one we met at Portela Airport on arrival.

What a view! Facing its restored ramparts over the water you can see the panorama of the River Tejo and its expanse along with the gleaming 25th of Abril Bridge on your left and the Vasco da Gama Bridge more faintly on your right .It was inevitable that, sooner or later, early residents of this city would take to the river and beyond, a maritime impulse that would lead this tiny country’s sailors and soldiers to the farthest reaches of the globe. But it is Belem, Lisbon’s suburb to the west of the city, that was the scene of global embarkations, and, fittingly, it is in Belem that past maritime glory is commemorated.

Here, the early history of the city is celebrated. Here, above the winding maze of the streets of the Alfama, on a hill first fortified by the Romans and in succession by Visigoths and Moors, the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques with the aid of some English soldiers, defeated the Moors and established a royal palace in 1147. Why is this castle called Saint George? Saint George is the saint associated with England and in the fourteenth century an alliance pact between England and Portugal was signed here and further cemented Anglo-Portuguese ties. As castles go, this is not romantic like Pena in Sintra because it was primarily a fortress protecting the city. You can see remains of a moat and peacocks strut, swans swim, and flamingoes flutter in a park like setting of old trees-Mediterranean cork, olive, and oak.

.There’s a snack stand and a restaurant with outside tables at which we gratefully slaked our thirst with some water and lemonade. You order inside and then carry it outside yourself. We saw a few school groups touring around, but the grounds weren’t crowded The VIEW is the must see here, and a stroll outside the gate gives you a bit of the Alfama area that unfortunately we did not have time to explore as it was nearly five pm when we left the Castelo grounds, to grab a tram (which did NOT break down) and then greet the Metro rush hour in the Baixa below

If you have the time, try to wander into and around the Castelo de Sao Jorge, which is set on a hill and can be seen from many points in the city (the Elevador de Santa Justa and the Praca da Figueira come to mind). The Visigoths built the castle in the 5th century and the Moors enlarged the area in the 9th century. The castle and nearby royal palace were strongholds for the Portuguese royalty from the 14th to 16th centuries. Some may scoff at visiting this castle, as it has been heavily restored over the years. However, you can get some very nice views of Lisbon from the top. Amaze your eyes as the walls and ramparts tumble down the hills, sort of like a Portuguese version of the Great Wall of China. There is free admission to the 10-towered castle.

As you wander down, you may encounter a miradouro or two. This is basically a level lookout perched aside the hilly terrain of the Alfama, some of which have cafes or other facilities. Two of the more notable ones are the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro da Graca. There is a 2,000-year-old Roman theater along Rua da Saudade.

As you keep meandering down the hill, you may wander into the Se, the 12th-century Romanesque-style main cathedral of Lisbon. The heavier style of the Se (it had previously served as a fortress) is not nearly as elaborate as the frilly Manuelite stylings of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos or Torre de Belem. You may run into many of the working-class folk who reside in this area, some of whom still fish daily as a way of life.

It's posssible for the disadvantaged to get right up to the entrance by taxi, but anybody who can should walk at least part of the way. Look carefully at a map if you are getting part way by the 28 tram, as the walk up starts from a much lower level than seems to be the case when you are there.

As for when to go, there is no doubt in my mind that this is best done when the sun is going down. The view right out over the city to the Viaduct and the far side of the river is superb.

I could certainly not manage all the steps which are part of the fun of a castle - that we all pretend is outgrown with childhood. However, it is still well worth going for the grounds, gardens, and terraces.

If you are staying more than a night in Lisbon, get full value from the castle by viewing it from a distance at the same time of day. There is a splendid viewpoint just to the right from the top of the Elevador de Glória.

The Castle of St George is picturesquely positioned on top of a hill in the Alfama. It can be seen from most parts of the old city – whether from the opposing hills of the Bairro Alto or from the low-lying downtown area of Baixa, the medieval ramparts etch off beautifully against any sky.

After recapturing Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, King Alfonso constructed the castle as residence of the Portuguese Kings. However, in 1511 Manuel I, either not one for great views or simply tiring of the steep route uphill, constructed a more lavish palace at Praca do Comercio and the old castle converted from royal residence to theatre, prison and arms depot. The big earthquake of 1755 destroyed most of the old castle and it felt into disuse.

However, in the 1930s Salazar decided to restore the ruins and thus recreate the feel of the old medieval castle. The castle may not be thoroughly authentic but the ramparts and battlements are in beautiful condition and there is nothing garishly modern about the place. The walls and battlements can be climbed and walked at will and it is a great place for children and adults alike.

The views from the castle are spectacular in all directions – whether to the River Tagus, the old town, the Bairro Alto on the opposing hill or down the Alfama district. A large shaded observation terrace with lots of benches runs the full length of the side facing downtown. It is also fun to walk in the tightly packed but neat residential quarter of Santa Cruz, which provides a couple of street blocks of housing inside the old castle wall area.

Getting to the castle is half the fun. You can of course walk uphill, but be warned the streets are very steep. More fun is to take the rickety old tram no 12 from Praca da Figueira for a slow roller coaster like ride up and down very steep and narrow old streets. Get off close to the castle and walk the last few steep blocks.

There is a restaurant in the castle area and several stands selling refreshments in the area but bringing your own picnic lunch is probably the most attractive option. The castle itself is open from 09:00 to 21:00 in summer and to 18:00 in winter, but some of the observation terraces are open 24 hours. Entry is free.

There is no charge to enter the site, although a multimedia exhibition on the history of Lisbon costs 600$. During my visit, the exhibition was temporarily closed due to technical difficulties but it didn't detract at all from my enjoyment of roaming the site and climbing the castle walls for magnificent views of Lisbon. An enterprising busker sat in the shaded courtyard and entertained tourists with acoustic guitar melodies which added to the ambiance. I'd recommend walking downhill from the castle because there are so many places to explore.

The area below the castle, called the Alfama, is a maze of narrow streets filled with houses, shops and restaurants. Getting lost is almost a given but people are so friendly that help and directions are always nearby.

As you walk downhill from the castle, a great place to stop and admire the view is Largo Santo Luzia. The half walls of this square are covered in blue and white tiles and there is a large purple bougainvillaea that is a favourite for picture taking.