The Bairro Alto is the higher lying area on the hills opposite the Alfama and Castelo de Sao Jorge. This area is easiest reached from the downtown Baixa area by the Elevador da Gloria, from the Rossio area, or the Elevador de Santa Justa from downtown Baixa. Alternatively it is a steep walk uphill – much better to ride up and walk down if you feel energetic.
The most visited area of Bairro Alto is Chidao – a fashionable shopping area with several important churches. One of the most interesting is the Egreja do Carmo. This church was extensively damaged during the earthquake of 1755. The tremors struck during mass and the roof caved in on the congregation. The roof was never repaired and the open roofed nave with skeletal arches looking like bare ribs can be viewed from many parts of the city.
The other famous church in this area is Sao Roque. It has a plain façade but the most amazing gilded interior. The Chapel of St John the Baptist is richly decorated with gold, silver, lapis, alabaster and other precious stones. It was built in 1742 in Rome and after receiving the blessing from the Pope, dismantled and moved to Portugal. (Clearly current Pope John Paul the Second’s travels are saving churches all over the world small fortunes!) The adjacent Museum of Sacred Art has many further noteworthy items of art related to the church and Jesuit missionaries.
Sao Roque so dominates this area that many of the other churches do not seem to even get a mention in standard English guide books. I visited a church on the corner of Rua de Alecrim and Do Chiado which had no English description despite a wonderful interior. A couple of Germans passed by with a guidebook describing every single piece of art individually. I shudder to think how long it would took them to "do" the church of Sao Roque.
This area is generally very charming with beautiful buildings. Many have tiled facades – some just with patterns but others are more elaborate making huge mosaics of mythical figures. Several pracas provide shaded areas and benches to sit and relax and to drink in the beauty and atmosphere of this marvelous neighborhood.
Behind the Church of Sao Roque, just past the Elevador da Gloria is the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. This belvedere offers sweeping views of the downtown area, Castelo de Sao Jorge on the opposite hill and the River Tagus. A tiled map is available to point out some of the sights. The views are the best at sunset and at night. Across the road from the Belvedere is the Port Wine Institute.