The first time I visited The Amber Palace, it was manageably busy. The second time, in the wake of the September 11 bombings, there were very few tourists. This time, it was heaving. So much so that a huge, new coach park has been built about 1km before reaching the ticket office and elephant departure point. Although we'd arrived at opening time (9am), there was already a lengthy queue for the elephant rides up to the palace. It also turned out that coach parties take precedence in the queue, thus guaranteeing that when you do reach the palace, it is overflowing to capacity. The elephant ride is, however, worth it, mainly because of the great view over the walls on the way up and partly because you're out of the way of the souvenir vendors. The elephants themselves are wonderfully attired in red, blue, and gold covers, while most of them have had their faces (or rear ends) decorated in beautiful vividly painted patterns. The palace apartments are located up a short, steep flight of steps through an intricately painted gate called Ganesh Pole. The most stunning of the apartments is the Sheesh Mahal, where the walls are covered in mosaics of mirror and coloured glass. Unfortunately, as with most of the palace complex, photo opportunities are slim due to the crowds. Above this is the Jas Mandir, which is just as beautifully decorated, but with the added bonus of intricately carved screens and incredible views from the terrace, over the valley, and to the ruins of the old walls snaking along the hill ridges.
Unlike previous visits to The Amber Palace, Moata Lake, nestled beneath the palace walls, actually had water in it. This time, the pavilion and gardens laid out in classical Muslim style was an island in the lake rather than the inconsequential scrubby-looking ruin it had been before. Similarly, the gardens inside the palace were more lush and greener than previously, with well-tended flower beds and working water fountains providing a cool resting place. The coach parties do not seem to have time for the oldest part of the complex, the Palace of Man Singh I, and the place was deserted. In stark contrast to the ornate decoration in other parts of the complex, this large courtyard, with its central pillared pavilion, is constructed out of the rich golden sandstone used for the outside walls of the palace. After the crowds and visual overload of the rest of the palace, there is something deeply satisfying about the simplicity of the gold stone against the deep-blue sky.
Entrance to the palace is R50, and the elephant ride was R200 per person just for the trip up. I could have done without the hassle from the elephant driver demanding a larger tip.