We passed by Hawa Mahal (the palace of the winds) on the main road through Jaipur and although we recognised it as a stunning building, little did we know. This five-storey building was built in 1799 for the sole purpose of allowing the female of the royal court to "people watch" from a private place. An elaborate and presumably expensive way of keeping the ladies happy!
When we accessed to building via a rear serene courtyard we were soon appreciating what a magnificent building we were about to explore. There is a minimal entrance fee (5 rupees if my memory serves me well), but the purchase of a permit to use your camera boosts the charge by another 30 rupees (still well under £1 for two people). The climb to the top is by way of a very gradual slope – after all royalty did not walk but were pushed in elaborate "wheelchairs" – and the views of the surrounding countryside are super from the top. It was here that we first saw the strange buildings of the Jantar Mantar. There’s an array of interesting buildings and "hidey-holes" and it did not take too much imagination to visualise the ladies of the court milling around this incredible building.
The central sandstone building is a mass of arches, domes, windows, and elaborately carved wooden screens, and from a distance this tiered building resembles a church organ with its intricate sound pipes. The red sandstone is sandwiched between sunny yellow constructs and some of the domes are augmented by this bright contrast. Covered passage ways, with a perfect view from the inside cleverly disguise the presence of those within (that was of course the intention) and on a hot summer’s day the building would offer shade and "air-conditioning" to the inhabitants.
On each floor there are screened views of the main Jaipur street and it would be through these shutters that the royal females would be able to spy on the "common folk" and keep themselves up to date on the latest fashions and the activity of the town. Because of the strict rule laid down for the "royal ladies" it was the only way that they could view the life of the ruler’s subjects and enjoy any of the many regal processions that were led through the City. Turrets are strategically placed around the upper floors and when we "grabbed a seat" in one of them the sensation of solitude was immense. Because although we were still very much in the Hawa Mahal, the elevation in the turret construction gave a real sense of being "a few steps removed" from the rest of the building. Certainly we had an uninterrupted view of the town.
Another "secret" spot gave a classic view over the rooftops as well as a superbly intimate view over the Siredeori Bazaar and the busy main streets of Jaipur. A great building to explore, but you won't need more than an hour.