Fatehpur Sikri

Amanda
Amanda
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4 out of 5
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Editor Pick

The Abandoned City of Fatehpur Sikri

  • April 3, 2006
  • Rated 4 of 5 by MichaelJM from Nottingham, England
The Abandoned City of Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned city, is around ¾-hour car journey from Agra and is a magnificent city in a superb setting. Its only downfall was that when it was built no real consideration was given to where the water supply would come from. So for 2 years, bullock drawn carts carried gallons of water to the city and deposited the contents in a giant water tank. The winter rains topped up the supply but generally the only source of water was by road.

Occupancy started in 1571 and for a decade and a half Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal empire. However, shortly after Emperor Akbar’s death, in 1585, it was decided that the royal palace and the surrounding settlement was not sustainable and the city of Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned. It’s extremely well preserved and has been deemed a World Heritage Site. Certainly if you’re visiting Agra make sure you pull in a visit to this place.

As we entered the site we were told about the Hall of Public Audiences and particular attention was brought to the remains of a concrete pillar set into a large expenses of open ground, slightly away from the "public area." We were told that a malignant elephant was tethered here and criminal, sentenced to death, would be secured within reach of the beast, which would in turn batter the condemned individual. Due to the unpredictable nature of the "execution" this was a major attraction for the righteous! I’m not sure about the veracity of this but it made for a good story.

As we entered the main the main city there was an incredibly ornate tower (Hall of Private Audiences), the second floor of which is supported by an incredible beautifully carved central stone column with elaborate stone bridges fanning out to the upper mezzanine. Here, private matters of state were discussed with the emperor by selected courtiers.

Outside in a large court area are the original markings of the Pachisi "game board". We didn’t really get to understand the rules but apparently the "pieces" were female servants of the emperor who would stand out in the centre, in the heat of summer, being moved, at the will of the royal players not unlike an "Alice in Wonderland" scenario.

The heavily columned Panch Mahal is an unusual building as it reduces in size after each level until the top floor, which is a single room. There’s an interesting central island that is accessed by two narrow bridges where the emperor, alongside his friends in court, spent time fishing. The whole site is incredibly well preserved and when we stood near to the man-made reservoir (now empty of all water) we could look over the hunting land of the emperor. A elaborate hunting tower stands near to the palace walls and it was not hard to understand why the Emperor chose this site to build his ideal capital city. It’s a great view.

From journal Amazing Agra

Editor Pick

Fatehpur Sikri

  • March 8, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Ivanhoe from Beveren, Belgium
This ghost town is very special. It was designed by Akbar who wanted to move his capital away from Agra and chose for Fatehpur. He let his architects make plans for the most beautiful city in the world. Which happened. The court moved to Fatehpur, but then they discovered which mistake they had made. Fatehpur is situated in an extremely warm and dry micro-climate which makes that water is often short. The life conditions were unbearable and after twenty years, the king decided to abandon the city completely. And so you can visit the city now as it is left that many years ago. It really is an intact city. You can see the closed structure of the city, and the many palaces an pavillons in it. The architects used many open structures in here, to make use of the wind to bring fresh air, but even that couldn't help to change the faith of this lost city.

Nearby is a mosque where a saint of Islamic world is buried. One way leads from Fatehpur to the Mosque, hardly 100 meters. A hard distance though- tens of salesmen try to sell you cheap wood camels, necklaces, etc. In the meantime, they are more interested in your pockets and bags, trying to pickpocket you. Once in the mosque you should be safe, but even there you are chased by pushy salesmen. Guards try to keep them away - we even saw them kicking at the salesmen with wooden sticks - but they don't have any effect. If you're not interested for religious reasons, we would recommend skipping the mosque at once.

From journal Trip in Northern India

Editor Pick

The city - an introduction and overview

  • October 26, 2001
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Amanda from London, United Kingdom
The tourist part of Fatephur Sikri consists of 2 parts – the city and religious areas, the latter centred around the mosque. There are also modern buildings on one side of the city, down on the plain below, but these aren’t of interest to the tourist.

When you arrive, it’s a good idea to see the city first, as there’s a car-parking area just outside the entrance. As you go through the gate into the city, and up the road, you should ask the driver to turn right at the fork, towards the higher walls, rather than left, towards the clearly-visible arch of the mosque. Once you’ve paid your $10 foreigner-price entrance charge at the ticket booth (no change available, so make sure you have the day’s current dollar exchange rate, which varies at the moment between 427 and 450 Rs) there is a gate on the right of the booth leading into the city. Various guides hang around the entrance, offering their services, and I strongly recommend you hire one, as their explanation of the buildings adds greatly to your enjoyment of the place. We were faced with a major scrum, when we arrived there at 3pm, with some 5 guides vying for our attention and cash. Check that your guide is certified by the Indian Ministry of Tourism, which should guarantee a reasonable standard of English and of the buildings. We eventually had to choose between a young, smooth operator in Western trousers, and a man in his 60s with stained Indian clothes – we talked to both of them and chose the older man after the younger took my mother aside and told her to "tell your daughter to take me, you as mother should choose as she is too young to know what is right". Both of us reacted badly to the parental advice!(As I had been to India before, and my mother hadn’t, and I’m much more capable of being aggressive and unpleasant, it was generally I who made such decisions, to my mother’s relief.) We didn’t regret our choice for a moment – the guide we chose had been born and brought up in the village of Fatephur under the city’s walls, and spoke good English. His love for and knowledge of the buildings made the visit more wonderful for us, and we benefited greatly from his experience.

On leaving the living areas of the city, we walked up the hill to the mosque, a walk of 300-400 yards. Entrance to the mosque area is free, and consequently you must work hard to dodge the endless chess and water sellers, beggars, and goats. The guide accompanied us, as the mosque was included in the 150Rs tour price we has negotiated with him. Visiting the whole complex will take you at least 2, and up to 3 hours, and as with other sites, it’s best to come early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, to dodge the worst heat.

From journal Fatehpur Sikri - the 16th century city

Editor Pick

Fatephur Sikri

  • August 10, 2000
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Amanda from London, United Kingdom
Fatephur Sikri

This town was planned and built from scratch in the 16th century. Houses and facilities for 40,000 were built. Unfortunately, the architects didn't access the needed amount of water, and there wasn't enough available for the town to thrive, so it was abandoned after only a few decades. As a result, the town is now a perfectly preserved 16th century location, and well-worth a day trip.

Most of the city is built of a red stone, that appears to be sandstone. Parts of the city are well-maintained with polished floors and inlaid walls, and other buildings are crumbling away. The contrast makes it a fascinating place. The first building you come to on arriving is the mosque. This was a muslim, Moguhl town from the start. The mosque - and indeed the whole town - was built from a reddish sandstone, and is very attractive in colour and design. The tomb in the middle of the mosque is probably the most beautiful thing about it. Made of marble, it features amazing carved marble screen windows - they have to be seen to be believed!

The rest of the town is laid out behind the mosque. I recommend you hire one of the many waiting guides, as then the buildings' functions will be clear, and you will get a lot more out of your visit. They speak excellent English, aren't at all expensive, and know a lot about the city, and help you really understand how the place functioned. The stables, barracks, and houses are all laid out carefully, and are most attractive.

We hired an ambassador car and driver in Agra to take us there and back, and it was a good idea to do so. It isn't expensive, and it takes away a lot of the hassle.

From journal Agra - home of the Taj Mahal

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