La Forcella is the name given to the back streets of Naples just behind the Piazza Garibaldi, close to the central train station. These atmospheric streets are known for being the home of the Camora - the Neapolitan version of the Mafia, but you'll be completely safe here taking in the sights. The only thing to keep an eye out for is an adventurous squid trying to make an escape!
Mornings are the best time to catch the fish market, and there are tons of stalls brimming with all manners of fish and seafood. The stock is contained in shallow metal dishes, sitting on ice and being sprayed by jets of icy water to keep it fresh. One stallholder thanked me profusely (in typical dramatic Italian fashion) when I pointed out that one of his squid was making a bid for freedom!
Even if you don't have cooking facilities where you are staying, it’s still good fun to stroll around the food market, or you could take home some smoked meats or some delicious cheese - all kinds of Italian specialties are available here at good prices.
Shoes are another staple, not only of La Forcella, but of Italian life. Italians love to buy shoes and you'll see loads of women putting down their overflowing baskets to try on a shoe. Bags are also abundant, and you have to be very picky if you can't find something to suit you here.
Luggage is another good bet, as all kinds of hold-alls and suitcases can be purchased. They are ideal if you've overdone the shoe shopping and need something to get it all home in.
Even if you come away empty-handed, you'll love the experience of the sights, sounds, and smells of La Forcella.