Just before you begin the descent into the village, look to the right by a farm gate and you will see King Arthur’s Quoit, a large flat granite stone that was, according to legend, flung by Arthur to land in this very spot. A small plaque details its history.

Tintagel is well served with car parks where you can leave the car for a couple of pounds all day. King Arthur’s tale has existed since the 8th century, and in the written form, since the 12th. It has been retold over the centuries, with the Round Table being added by the chronicler Wace, and various other addenda by Sir Thomas Malory and Tennyson. The legend lives on today, perpetuated by mass tourism and the New Age movement.

The ruined castle we see today was built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, between 1233 and 1236, a full 600 years after Arthur reputedly fought the Saxons at the battle of Mount Bladon near what is now Swindon in Wiltshire. The castle was always a stronghold for the Cornish kings, who were powerful and wealthy. Thousands of shards of Mediterranean pottery have been uncovered on the site, pointing to a healthy trade in wine and olive oil. The castle would have held a commanding view over the sea and surrounding land and was undoubtedly involved in many a battle throughout its history.

Arthur’s legend is briefly as follows: He was the son of Uther Pendragon and was born at Tintagel, where he built his castle. He resided here with his queen, Guinevere, and shared the castle with his knights, who included Sirs Galahad, Tristram, Lancelot, Gawain, Percival, Bedivere, Lucan, Lionel, Gareth, Kay, Lamorak, Mordred, and Dagonet. His magician, Merlin, lived in his own lodgings beneath the castle.

Arthur’s sword, Excalibur, was forged at Avalon and thrown by Arthur into Dozmary Pool on Bodmin Moor (see Bodmin journal).

Mordred, who was Arthur’s usurping stepson, was defeated at the battle of Camlan on the banks of the River Camel, although Arthur sustained serious wounding. He reputedly sailed west to the Islands of the Blest (Scilly Isles) or to Avalon (Glastonbury), where his tomb was "discovered" in the 12th century.

Tintagel is a lovely place, with towering cliffs, thundering seas, and full of myths and legends. It does get exceptionally crowded in summer, but go along and sample its undeniable aura and dwell on the legend of King Arthur awhile.

Frankly, Tintagel is a natural as much as an historical attraction. The visitor is asked to scale steep stone stairways to fully appreciate the site. My observation was, at the time, that I was glad that I hadn't put this off into my dotage. Far below, the relentless Atlantic waves beat down on Merlin's Cave.

Tintagel doesn't get much of a mention in many tourist guides, but I enjoyed the beauty of the site and possibly the romanticism associated with it. To get to the castle site, one drives into Tintagle town and parks. Then there is a fair walk to the site itself. Remember, you will be scaling some steep staircases. You might come here and avoid the stairs, but then what would be the point as so much of the site would be unavailable to you.

Tintagel town is nice enough although everything seems to bear the name of Arthur or Guinivere or Lancelot or Merlin ad infinitum.

The site is maintained by English Heritage. You can park in the village and then either walk down the road to the castle ruins or catch a ride (50p or £1). I recommend walking down and taking the range rover back up. The little indoor exhibit is rather interesting and free, as are the caves below. It's a few pounds to climb up to the castle ruins, which we didn't bother to do.

You might also go to Slaughterbridge, down the road near Camelford, where legend has it Arthur was brought down; you can view Arthur's Stone after a pretty walk through a wooded forest along a small stream. Not too far, near the Jamaica Inn, is Dozmary Pool, where Excalibur was returned to the Lady of the Lake. The 3 sites will give you a satisfying flavor of Arthurian legend.