Ghent History Tour

Linda Kaye
Linda Kaye
First Reviewer
5 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
2
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5
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Editor Pick

Ghent History Tour

  • September 27, 2003
  • Rated 5 of 5 by davidx from Todmorden, United Kingdom
I have just looked at Linda Kaye's account of this trip and in particular at her experience of weather--what luck. I thought it was precisely what I had managed myself--it had been a gloomy day and now the sun was out BUT it probably was clearing but there was one truly mighty thunderstorm to come before it did and guess where we were--no prizes! Umbrellas were issued and the driver tried to give us shelter under a bridge! Even so it was most informative and even enjoyable, but I did feel a bit naked next morning in completely unmenacing sun.
The trip lasts abot 40 minutes and is confined to the Leie River and the Liève Canal to Brugge, which joins the Leie at the top of the Graslei/Korenlei. The part of the Leie beween the Korenlei and the Graslei is the ancient harbour of Ghent and thus the buildings on the Graslei were of immense importance, but they do not all belong to a common age as in Brugge. Rather they are separated by hundreds of years. The oldest of them was built in about 1200 and is the Koornstapelhuis from when Ghent had the staple in corn and it all had to be stored here before sale. Adjacent to this is the minute old customs house. Other guild buildings were those of the Free Boatmen, the fish measurers, the grain weighers, and the masons. Incidentally the other side of the river is far more humbler with the hospices.
Near the bottom end of these two roads where the boat turns back is St Michael's Bridge and fro just before this the famous view of the three towers is to be seen, which are in order ST Niclaaskerke, once the belfry of Ghent, then the actual Belfry, and lastly the tower of Sint Baafskathedraal.
Further up than the starting point the boat follows the Liève canal a short distance to the wonderful Gravensteen castle of the Counts of Flanders, who were always concerned to establish practical independence from the French crown to which they were nominally subject. Then it continues to see some religious and old industrial buildings. Lastly it returns to the junction and goes up the Leie for a short distance to see the [still in use] abbey.
A fine trip and a fine commentary.

From journal Ghent, Gent or Gand - Great and Gracious

Editor Pick

History Tour of Ghent

  • November 18, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Linda Kaye from San Antonio, Texas
History Tour of Ghent

Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) has been described as a "grim and muscular fortress". It was built in 1180 by Philip of Alsace, Count of Flanders, upon his return from the Crusades and was influenced by castles he had seen. After the 14th century it was no longer needed as a military stronghold and was used as a jail, law court and later a cotton mill. It was restored between 1894 and 1913 and is now a museum and tourist attraction. As we stood at ground level and looked up at this massive structure, it was not hard to imagine how this medieval castle represented a much harsher time, and today, in the middle of a bustling modern world, still boggles the mind.

This is a great place to wonder the grounds and the different rooms. We climbed up the walkways to the upper walls that overlooked Ghent and tried to imagine life in the Middle Ages. Justice was dispensed from this castle, harsh and unforgiving as evidenced by the instruments of torture and execution on display in the museum. Guilt or innocence was not relative in those days; the degree of punishment was the only thing that mattered.

Admission is under 5 Euro for adults- children under 12 free. Allow at least one hour to visit the grounds, the buildings, and the Museum of Court Paraphernalia, a unique collection of coercion and torture instruments used on prisoners in past centuries.

We visited the Lapidary Museum at the ruins of the former St. Bavo Abbey, Gandastraat #7. It is an incredible collection of historic pieces from renovated or demolished buildings, such as statutes, window trim and beautiful carved stone. There are impressive tombstones from the 13th – 19th centuries, including the tombstone of Hubert van Eyck, brother of Jan van Eyck who together painted the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. The pieces we saw were outside just passed an iron gate and there was no charge to walk through these wonderful pieces of history.

Boat Excursion on the Ghent Waterways: Dodging a rain shower, we timed our boat ride just perfectly. The sun had returned and there was no line waiting for a boat ride at the Graslei, the old Ghent port area. It was a 40-minute trip through the historic city from a totally new prospective traveling on both the Leie and the Lieve Rivers.

From river level we gazed up at the magnificent, Guild Houses along the Graslei and the Korenlei, the backside of the Castle of the Courts, the old fish market and the Meat Hall. The continually changing sights along the waterway were enchanting - the small shops and restaurants, a popular hostel and three unique towers at the turn-around point for the boat tour. On the ride back, we saw things we had missed earlier. It was so relaxing to just sit back and enjoy all the beautiful sites.

From journal Ghent-Somewhere between Heaven & Earth

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