Reykjavik (General)

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Editor Pick

The Most Over-Rated Capital City?

  • April 20, 2009
  • Rated 2 of 5 by dangaroo from Warsaw, Poland
The problem I find with travel reviews, in particular those you can find in guide books is that they rarely say anything negative about a place at all. Therefore you often have an idyllic view of somewhere before having gone there. Summing up Iceland's capital Reykjavik - I would probably call it an over-rated tourist trap that lives off its name as the world's most northerly capital.

On the up side - there is an alcohol shop! Having been to Akureyri on a Sunday when everything was closed and our previous sip of the golden juice dating back to the previous week when a can of warm Viking was gifted to us by some Czechs who had travelled about 200km to stock up on it, we were in dire need of a beer! Better yet, there's a lot of immigrants in Reykjavik - so the shop was filled with decent foreign beer as opposed to the Icelandic water!

There's nothing in the way of natural wonders in comparison to the rest of the country but one wouldn't really expect that from a capital city. Instead, you will find suburbs with wide roads and enormous jeeps often with personal number plates (with only 300,000 Icelanders - it's easy not to clash!) such as the humorous "Big Boy" I managed to photograph. The centre is less rigid, in its road design but doesn't impress with bland architecture and expensive but ultimately dull boutiques that makes its southerly neighbour capital Torshavn look like Paris.

Perhaps the two buildings of note (other than the aforementioned bottle shop) is the impressing and uniquely shaped Hallgrímskirkja. Perlan, another inventive building is a glass dome on 4 water tanks which looks good from a distance but is fairly tacky inside with an expensive bar/restaurant and the mandatory souvenir shop (or are they called artefacts these days?!) Tjornin "The Pond" is a relatively nice area of the city near the city hall and a handful of museums and is very much the quintessential duck feeding destination.

The whale sighting tours (which I'm about to review) aren't a patch on the ones in Husavik and the guides seem to be aware of this as they spend the majority of the time talking about sea birds instead.

There are some nice woolen goods and there is the attraction of getting tax back at the airport due to Iceland's non EU status but any other souvenirs are mostly tacky and Viking or puffin related.

Iceland's most boring destination by far and probably the least interesting capital city in Europe, I would say. Reykjavik's so-called amazing nightlife is also a bit of a lie, in my book - whilst the Icelanders do like to get tanked particularly at the weekend and particularly at home, pubs and clubs don't really get going until about midnight when the locals are already to drunk to have that much fun. There is an array of live musicians though who mostly play that melancholy arty indie sound not too distant from the country's success stories - Bjork and Sigur Ros.

Hotdogs are stunning value in Reykjavik and the backbone of a budget traveller's diet there, banks are also an awesome little adventure (or were until the crisis at least), they are a bit like five star hotels with free water, coffee, biscuits and internet!

From journal Logistics and Everything But The Volcano

The Great Atlantic Rift

  • April 3, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Limburger from Oakdale, Minnesota
The Great Atlantic Rift

The Great Atlantic Rift, in the Þingvellir National Park, is a very impressive place to be. It's where Europe and North America meet...their tectonic plates that is. The Atlantic rift goes practically from the South to the North Pole, but is only visible in this part of Iceland.

This area shows you where one minute you're walking on the Eurasian tectonic plate and after a 10- to 15-minute hike you're walking on the North American tectonic plate.

In the area in between there are lots of cracks in the earth's crust, which is basically a void filled with magma, which of course has cooled and hardened so you can walk there. In this area it's important to stay on the paths, because a lot of the cracks in the crust are hidden in water or under vegetation and someone could easily fall into these cracks never to be seen again, as some of these are very deep.

It's however a very beautiful place to spend some time and just relax and enjoy the surroundings. I have been in many places in the world, but this one was truly impressive.

From journal Reykjavik at the Odinsve Hotel

Editor Pick

Krysuvik

  • March 15, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Krysuvik

Krýsuvík is an abandoned farming village 50km south of Reykjavík. It was one of the earliest settlements in the country around 900AD. Due to the area's fertility during these days, it soon grew into a large estate and became a well-known agricultural and fishing centre. However a major volcanic eruption in the 12th century destroyed the hamlet in what is known as the "Krýsuvík fires". The village never recovered of this tragedy and the regional centre shifted 20km west to the village of Grindavík, now still an important fishing centre of Iceland.

During the next centuries some dispersed farms were founded in the still fertile area, still locally known as Krýsuvík. One of the greatest volcano eruptions of our times, the 1783 Laki eruption which caused even poisonous gasses to be spread over Europe, proved to be the final blow to the area. The people not killed by the toxic fogs or by the starvation that followed, fled their farmhouses to other places in Iceland or as far away as Canada. Nowadays, the only notable building in the area, located on a hillock right at the crossing of road 427 (west to Grindavík) and road 42 (running north to Reykjavík or east to Selfoss) is a small wooden church called Krýsuvíkurkirkja. The church is now fully restored and its 19th century interior makes it a nice stopover. A ruined fishing village can be reached by a 4WD track from road 427. This track ends at a cliff (Krýsuvíkurbjarg), famous for its many sea birds.

A few km north of the church along road 42 is the Seltún geothermal area, the closest one to Reykjavík. The colourful soil contains bubbling mud pools, foul smelling steam fumaroles and hot sulphurous water springs. The smoke can be seen already from a great distance away. From the car park a boardwalk takes you around the field. Care should be taken not to thread next to it as the earth only forms a thin crust here, which may break once you step on it. An attempt to use the geothermal energy was stopped when an exploratory drilling hole exploded a few years ago, visible as the grey mud from the hole is still covering the surroundings.

10km more north is the geothermally active Kleifarvatn lake. Road 42 offers nice views on the lake as it runs through the nearby hills. A footpath goes down to its shores from the information board. An earthquake in 2000 created a fissure in the soil, and the lake is now draining at a high rate, with 20% of the water already disappeared. The lower water level disclosed hot springs, formerly below its water level.

There are no scheduled buses travelling to Krýsuvík so a (rental) car, a (motor) bike or sturdy hiking boots are necessary to explore the area. For people with little time the area can be combined with a visit to nearby Grindavík and its world-famous Blue Lagoon geothermal spa as a full day trip from Reykjavík.

From journal Smoky Bay Town

Editor Pick

City Centre

  • February 13, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
City Centre

Right in the heart of Reykjavík is the elegant Austurvöllur Square. It is one of the oldest squares in the country and is lined with historical buildings. The 18th century white Dómkirkjan church is the Lutheran cathedral of the town. Just next to it is the dark gray Parliament Building (Alþingishúsið in Icelandic) from the end of the 19th century. Other notable buildings are the Art Deco Hótel Borg and the Tollhúsið with its harbour scene mosaic.

Just south of Austurvöllur Square is the controversial town hall (Ráðhúsið) of Reykjavík, a modern glass and concrete building from 1992. The mayor and the city councillors hold office here. Apart from its official function, it houses a cybercafé, the Ráðhúskaffi, serving refreshments and small snacks and an exhibition room with regularly art on display. In its basement is a large 3D relief map at scale 1:100.000, making it around 10 sq m. The map clearly shows Iceland's fjords, glaciers, volcanoes and lakes. There is no entrance fee.

The town hall was constructed right at the northern bank of the very centrally located Tjörnin lake. The name of the 200 by 400m large lake means "The Pond" in English. It is surrounded by some nice townhouses and the Fríkirkja church across the town hall. On the southern end of the lake is a bridge crossing it and a fountain beyond the bridge.

Just 500m eastwards on Skólavörðuholt hill is Iceland's tallest building, the massive Hallgrímskirkja, towering 75m over the city. The church, dedicated to local poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson, took 40 years to complete and was finalized only in 1986. It was not designed to represent a rocket, but to resemble hexagonal basalt columns as you can see in Iceland's Skaftafell National Park. The interior of the church is remarkably spacious and clear. The most interesting object inside is the impressive pipe organ, the largest one in the country. The church tower can be climbed for 350Kr (50Kr for children) if you want to enjoy a wide panorama of Reykjavík and its surroundings during clear days. On the square in front of the church is a statue of Leif Erikssón, the probable first European (Norwegian) explorer to reach the Americas in Newfoundland.

200m north of the large tower is Reykjavík's main shopping district, centred around Laugavegur and Bankastræti. The streets are lined with some of the oldest houses in the country. Woollen quality clothes are about the only items available for reasonable prices here. The street houses boutiques, perfumeries, chemistries and tourist shops. During weekend evenings people flock the streets to enjoy the famous nightlife in these area. A few cinemas, the national theatre and Reykjavík's opera house attract tourists and locals alike. Restaurants and fast food joints feed the hungry. Don't forget to try the excellent Icelandic hot dog (pylsur), topped with mustard, ketchup, remoulade sauce and fresh or fried onion. Late in the evening on weekends the people head for one of the numerous bars, pubs, or clubs here.

From journal Smoky Bay Town

Reykjanes Peninsula

  • September 10, 2004
  • Rated 4 of 5 by MikeInTown from Norristown, Pennsylvania
Reykjanes Peninsula

The second part of our Blue Lagoon excursion was a ride along the Reykjanes Peninsula. This trip consisted of riding on a long, winding road through a lava field. We stopped at a fishing village to get a feel for rural life in Iceland. Later, we stopped at a rugged, windy coastline to look at the huge waves crash against the jagged rock formations.

From journal Iceland Getaway

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