Going out to the Skellig Michael Rocks is a whole day alone, and you should probably stay in the Ballinskelig area for the night. Then you could spend even more time just on Valencia Island alone. However, most visitors do the whole Ring of Kerry for a day trip, starting and ending in Killarney.

Whatever you choose, you are in for some spectacular scenery. If you stop in the village of Sneem, there is a Quill's Market to buy wonderful woolens and souvenirs. Also it has some nice pubs to have lunch.

I find the Ring of Kerry a little milder than the Dingle Peninsula Loop. It has such a wonderful exposure to the mountains and sea that makes Ireland so famous for. Ireland is shaped like a "bowl" with the outside edges high with mountains, and the interior flatter and pastoral with hills and many lakes and bogs.

If you are doing the Ring in the tourist season, you will have to plan on a longer time to complete the circle because of the numerous tour buses that meander along the long narrow roads. No passing, so you have to wait. Be prepared to pack an extra measure of patience. We did it last during the month of November so we had it all to ourselves. However, the weather was a cloudy and cold. You will love it so take some amazing photographs. Have fun!!!

The road itself is quite a narrow one (there are only a few motorways in Ireland, mainly around Dublin), but you shouldn't get into any major traffic jams, and the ones you do are mostly just behind one of the coach tours that do the ring. That's another thing: the coaches and buses go anti-clockwise around the ring, so if you want to avoid meeting them on the corners, it's suggested that you go with them.

The views from the road are truly spectacular views, and there are many photo points along the way where you can park your car at the roadside and take a photo or two. There are also lots of beaches around the coastline sections of the ring, but my favourite was the one at St. Finan's Bay, from which you can see the Skellig Islands. Also in St. Finan's Bay is the Skellig Chocolate Factory, where you can sample and then buy some of their delicious filled chocolates. My personal favourite was Banoffee, but adults may prefer some of the liquor-filled ones.

The bus stops along the way at scenic overlooks and allows time to take photos. There is also a stop at a sheep farm where a local farmer charges a small fee to show off his sheep-herding dogs and teach about how sheep are raised. This is entertaining and educational and gives insight into the local culture and lifestyle. The tour lasts all day, returning to Killarney at about 5pm. For adults, this is an interesting way to spend the day, but children and adolescents would be very bored after the first few stops. Much of the time is spent riding in the bus through mountain roads.

I personally prefer the tour with my own car. You are much more flexible and there are so many places and hidden spots where busses never stop. Of course, they bring you to the most popular places like Killarney (see Killarney Dream), Kenmare, Dingle Bay, the Atlantic Coast, and Bog Village (an old typical Irish village where you can see how the Irish people lived 100 years ago).

However, it is a must to do the Ring of Kerry Tour, either by bus or by car! My advice would be to take a camera and lots of films since there are many things to take pictures of.

As there are so many coaches using this route, particularly from first thing in the morning, the drivers and bus companies have decided to tackle the road in a anti-clockwise direction. This means there are no altercations between buses heading in opposite directions, which have met head-on at a hairpin curve. All guide books do also recommend that the drivers of cars do the same to again prevent any unnecessary aggression between drivers.

We chose to drive clockwise and face the traffic head-on as it was a more appealing thought than to chug along behind a fully laden coach billowing fumes at me and constantly getting in the way. I'm glad we chose to go that way round as we only met 6 coaches and with courtesy and caution we all managed to enjoy the day. A tip is to leave just before lunch and have lunch somewhere en route. This way there are fewer coaches on the Ring and fewer people at the lookouts.

Another advantage to not taking a coach is that you are able to explore the minor roads that can take you up into the mountains or down to secluded bays and beaches. If you take the R565 you will find a bridge that will take you over to Valentia Island - once the most famous place in Ireland! In 1858 the first transatlantic telegraph cable transmitted from here directly to New York and thus history was made.

Lying just off the coast of Valentia are two islands, the Skelligs - Skellig Michael once being inhabited by monks. On good days when the weather is right you are able to take a boat trip across to Michael to climb the 600 steps up to the 6th century monastery and adjoining community. These buildings were in use for over 600 years before they abandoned and the monks moved to Ballinskelligs on the mainland. To book a trip or just to learn more of the monks see the Skellig Experience just across the bridge on the left-hand side on Valentia. To return to the mainland, use the bridge or for something a little different drive to the other end of the island and take the car ferry.

We drove our way through the Southern tip of the peninsula with a stop at the coastal town of Ballinskelligs. This town isn't actually on the Ring of Kerry, but it was an important side trip for us. My great-grandmother was born here and lived in the town until her late teens, when she moved to the US and never looked back. Her mother and father stayed behind in the house and her brother later returned to build a new cottage on the site. Their immediate family is now all deceased, but there is a new family in the house. They use the original house as a storage place for their peet. We stopped in the town and got directions to the farm from the most helpful woman and found it with no problems, although the family wasn't there (they were in the next big town at the parade . . . oh great, another parade!) How neat it was to be witness to this piece of my family history. You can get back onto the Ring from here quite easily, so we continued on our way.

Cahersiveen was the next big town on our map. We knew we would be running into some congestion here because they told us about the parade back in Ballinskelligs. And sure enough, we were driving the parade route again. Luckily, a policeman gave us a detour route just above the main road which took us away from the crowds and parade. The remainder of the Ring of Kerry route didn't give us many stops, but we did get some amazing views of the Dingle Bay and Peninsula across the water. The water appeared to be bright blue, it was so beautiful.

We drove our way back to Killarney and decided to go back to Muckross for one last look and to see the Torc waterfall, which we missed on our first way around. The waterfall can be accessed at a clearly marked right turn off of the road. There is a small car park and the falls are about a 100 meter walk up an incline. You can also climb even higher up a number of stairs to the top of the falls. We expected another view of the falls from this vantage, but none came about. It is at this point where you can join three walking trails which lead in various directions. A couple we met told us that we could walk all the way to Kenmare if we wanted to. It was then that we decided to come back with our backpacks someday!

Information on the Ring of Kerry can be accessed through these websites:

www.kerrygems.ie/places/ring

www.ringofkerrytourism.com

www.ringofkerryguide.com