When I first saw the cathedral, I was amazed. I didn't know whether I liked it or not; its grandeur is overwhelming, yet its sense of gloominess, so typical in Gothic architecture, creates an almost disappointing first impression.

Inside, its high walls, sculpture details, and brilliant altarpiece impressed me beyond words, although I have to admit that at the time I concentrated more on avoiding suffocation by the crowd of at least 2,000 people that were in there with me, seeing as it was World Youth Day.

By the end of the week, I had grown very fond of the Dom Cathedral. My view of it was sort of like a small child's amazement towards a seemingly huge and scary uncle or grandfather. The Dom's size and architectural features, such as the flying buttresses and the high, pointed towers, quickly allowed me to perceive the beauty behind its medieval darkness. The enormous flag-bearing crowds that surrounded the cathedral day and night added to its wonder. Furthermore, it inspired me to take a Fine Art History class this year to learn more about art and architecture.

I sincerely recommend this historical site, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, to everyone!

A truly amazing experience, the cathedral is a must-see for anyone visiting Cologne or the local area.

To fully appreciate the history of the Cathedral one has to be aware of Germany’s rather complicated medieval political system. What roughly comprises Germany today was during the middle ages and beyond divided into several hundred smaller kingdoms, duchies, and diverse other entities. These areas were united in name in the Holy Roman Empire – which was neither Roman, nor Holy, nor an Empire – with an elected emperor nominally at the helm. For centuries the archbishop of Cologne was one of the electors and thus an important political as well as religious entity.

In 1162 Emperor Barbarossa sacked Milan and took from there the bones of the three kings (Magi). The Emperor presented the Magi to the influential archbishop of Cologne. Back then relics were what the Internet stocks became at the end of the second millennium – fabulously expensive, actually worthless, but earning pretty well while the façade lasted. Pilgrims came from far to see the Magi and donations ensured a steady income stream for the archbishop.

By the thirteenth century the existing Cologne Cathedral was no longer suitable for its important role as seat of an archbishop and the relics. A new church in what was referred to as the French style was commissioned. Inspired partly by the cathedral in Amiens, as well as contemporary St. Chapelle in Paris, the new cathedral was designed to be the largest structure in the world (in line with the belief in France that the thorn crown relic in St. Chapelle was a uniting symbol of the nation the German emperor also had similar plans for the Magi).

Construction was started in 1248 and initially progressed rapidly. From 1265 services were held in the seven choir chapels, and by 1322 the choir was completed. However, during the sixteenth century crisis struck. Relics were no longer in vogue, trade routes had shifted, and worse the Reformation led by Martin Luther had split the church in Germany. Funds dried up, and in 1560 construction was completely halted. For two and a half centuries the giant wooden crane built on top of the south tower, which stood at about 60 meters, became the rather melancholic symbol of the largest city in Germany.

Romanticism and nationalism in the nineteenth century led to renewed attempts to finish construction. By now the Holy Roman Empire was defunct and Cologne, for centuries a free imperial city, became part of Prussia. Gothic, at the inception of the church referred to as the French style, was now ironically interpreted as typically German and it became a matter of national pride to complete the cathedral. Construction was financed through donations, a lottery, and state funding. State money came at a price: when the cathedral was finally completed in 1880 and consecrated in the presence of German Emperor Wilhem I, leading church dignities boycotted the event because the Emperor rather than God was at the center of celebrations.

During the frequent church services visitors are only allowed into the front portal, but even from here the size of the church is impressive. However, the dimensions become completely overwhelming as you enter the nave through a 7.4 meter wide yet 42 meter high arch. Although only 600 seats have a clear view of the altar, 8500 visitors were present during a papal visit in 1980, and more than 3000 are common during important religious services. It is estimated that up to 20,000 people could be packed in should the need arise.

The cathedral is filled with art and pilgrims are still drawn to specific items, as has been the case for centuries. The Gero Crucifix, carved in 976, is the oldest large crucifix north of the Alps. It shows Christ at the moment of death – the emphasis being on salvation rather than suffering.

The main draw is still the Three Magi. The relics, three skulls with golden crowns, are housed inside the shrine of the Magi, a two meter long box wrapped in gilded silver and encrusted with jewels. Only the front part featuring the adoration of the three kings is in pure gold. The Chapel of the Three Magi is the oldest part of the Cathedral. The colored glass windows here are original and date from 1265. Parts of the altar date to 1300, but the colorful decoration is reconstructed. Formerly all the chapels had similar richly decorated walls.

Another work of note is the altar of the Patron Saints of Cologne, painted by Stefan Lochner in 1442. This painting features three kings worshiping Christ held in the arms of Maria. The painting is almost photographic in detail, showing not only the rich embroidery on clothes but also several recognizable herb types in the grassy foreground. Also note the large stag beetle on the right side panel.

In the transept near the usually locked south doors is a statue of St. Christopher carrying Christ on his shoulders. Pay your respects – he is the patron saint of travelers.

Having climbed the more than 500 steps to the top of the south tower eight years ago, I used a baby on my arm as excuse not to do so again. However, the view from the top is magnificent even on a cloudy day. On the way you’ll pass some of the impressive bells. St Peter’s, cast in 1923, is the largest free-swinging bell in the world. It is only rung the day before important religious holidays, so hear it on cathedral’s website instead!

The cathedral is open daily from 05:45 to 19:30. The tower can be climbed from 09:00 to 17:00. As is customary with Roman Catholic churches, entry is free. Climbing the tower is Euro 1.50.

Continue to Cathedral 3 – the construction history.