Continued from Cathedral
1.
During the frequent church services visitors are only allowed into the front portal, but even from here the size of the church is impressive. However, the dimensions become completely overwhelming as you enter the nave through a 7.4 meter wide yet 42 meter high arch. Although only 600 seats have a clear view of the altar, 8500 visitors were present during a papal visit in 1980, and more than 3000 are common during important religious services. It is estimated that up to 20,000 people could be packed in should the need arise.
The cathedral is filled with art and pilgrims are still drawn to specific items, as has been the case for centuries. The Gero Crucifix, carved in 976, is the oldest large crucifix north of the Alps. It shows Christ at the moment of death – the emphasis being on salvation rather than suffering.
The main draw is still the Three Magi. The relics, three skulls with golden crowns, are housed inside the shrine of the Magi, a two meter long box wrapped in gilded silver and encrusted with jewels. Only the front part featuring the adoration of the three kings is in pure gold. The Chapel of the Three Magi is the oldest part of the Cathedral. The colored glass windows here are original and date from 1265. Parts of the altar date to 1300, but the colorful decoration is reconstructed. Formerly all the chapels had similar richly decorated walls.
Another work of note is the altar of the Patron Saints of Cologne, painted by Stefan Lochner in 1442. This painting features three kings worshiping Christ held in the arms of Maria. The painting is almost photographic in detail, showing not only the rich embroidery on clothes but also several recognizable herb types in the grassy foreground. Also note the large stag beetle on the right side panel.
In the transept near the usually locked south doors is a statue of St. Christopher carrying Christ on his shoulders. Pay your respects – he is the patron saint of travelers.
Having climbed the more than 500 steps to the top of the south tower eight years ago, I used a baby on my arm as excuse not to do so again. However, the view from the top is magnificent even on a cloudy day. On the way you’ll pass some of the impressive bells. St Peter’s, cast in 1923, is the largest free-swinging bell in the world. It is only rung the day before important religious holidays, so hear it on cathedral’s website instead!
The cathedral is open daily from 05:45 to 19:30. The tower can be climbed from 09:00 to 17:00. As is customary with Roman Catholic churches, entry is free. Climbing the tower is Euro 1.50.
Continue to Cathedral
3 – the construction history.