This is truly the most unique National Park we have visited. No entrance gate with a friendly ranger handing you a strict list of rules. No gravel parking lots. No log cabin style lodges. In fact it is nearly impossible to tell when you have entered the park because the primary part of it is situated in downtown Hot Springs.
What this park does is celebrate that humans are attracted to water, especially water that presents itself in a unique way. Area rainfall seeps deep into the earth through rock fractures. The deeper it goes the hotter it gets eventually it meets rock fissures that drive the water up to the lower west slope of Hot Springs Mountain. American Indians came to this steamy spot for healing. Fernando Desoto’s exploration party wintered here. Thomas Jefferson sent a team to investigate it. Word got out and soon frame and canvas bathhouses sprang up. The area began to draw wealthier clientele, so the services became grander and more luxurious. That brings us to the main attraction of the National Park…Bathhouse Row.
Eight remaining bathhouses stand shoulder to shoulder on Central Avenue with their backs to the slopes of Hot Springs Mountain. Only one, the elegant Fordyce, has been completely restored (to circa 1915) for touring and serves as the visitor center (you will see a Park Ranger there). The Buckstaff is still an active bathhouse. Four other bathhouses are in neighboring hotels. And as for that lack of gravel parking lot… well Hot Springs has one of the grandest parking ramps I have ever seen. The walk that connects it to Central Avenue is a sculpture and fountain park. Behind bathhouse row is the Grand Promenade and several walking trails. In the Fall this is gorgeous. Thermal fountains are available for you to collect your own water. Behind the Maurice Bathhouse are some display springs to give you an idea of what it might have looked like to the early people.
Across the street from the Bathhouse Row are shops and restaurants. Area tours are offered aboard the amphibious Ducks. It is a happy area. But if you feel cheated out of that normal National Park atmosphere, don’t give up hope. This park also has mountainous roads to drive and trails to hike on Hot Springs Mountain and West Mountain. There is an observation tower and overlooks, too.