I don’t know of anyone who doesn’t want to see the Terracotta Warriors, and I’ve nursed an ambition for several years to see them in all their glory. And I’m certainly pleased I did. We’d been told that photography was not allowed, but I’m pleased to say that it is now permitted as long as you don’t try to use a tripod (these are expressly forbidden).
It’s a large complex, and being short on time, we took the 5RMB, open-sided bus ride up to the top. This is the cost of the return journey and makes short work of the uphill climb to the museum. Effectively, there are four buildings that you must visit. We went to the museum first, which housed the golden chariots and horses. These have been beautifully restored and are protected from the elements in sealed glass units. The chariots’ parasols look stunning, still protecting the rider from the elements and the lead horse, with its head plume standing proudly, ready to guide the other horses forward. I was less interested in the next section of the museum, which felt more like propaganda, as display cabinets sported photographs of international dignitaries who had visited the site.
Next we were advised to view the panoramic film presentation of the history of the birth and destruction of the Warriors. This did put the whole site into perspective and enabled me to view the "actual" Warriors with a basic knowledge of their place in history. It was a good film and about the right length. Now we were ready to make the journey to the home of the warriors. A short brisk walk and I could feel the excitement rising. We go up some steps and then enter the massive arena that houses the treasured warriors. I could smell the clay and almost feel history as the warriors appeared in my line of vision. Many stood erect, some without heads, and countless figures lay in various states of disarray, having been destroyed by the collapse of the vault’s roof or the mindless vandalism of marauding troops.
We both stand in awe, gazing at the figures, all with their own character and distinguishing marks. It was said that the emperor threatened to kill any of the men if they failed to produce a perfect figure or if there were similarities between the figures. No twins here! It’s best to forget the notion of restoration and just remind yourself that what you see is a small percentage of the whole. A second building contains less well-maintained warriors, although there are some superb horses and clear evidence to support the story of a rampant fire in one of the vault’s corridors – you can clearly see the charred remains of a wooden beam.
Amusingly, our guide had told us, in a hushed whisper, that we might be fortunate enough to see the "old man who found the site." Guess who was at a book signing!