The elegant Schloss Johannisberg can be seen on a hill overlooking the main
road from Rüdesheim to Wiesbaden. The palatial castle is not the main reason to
visit, but rather the wine.
Schloss Johannisberg is one of the most famous wineries in Germany. The
vineyard had a colorful and interesting history going back towards it foundation
by no less a figure than Charlemagne himself around 800 AD. However, its real
claim to fame came totally by accident. In accordance with custom the grapes
could only be harvested once permission was received from the Prince Abbott who
resided in Fulda. In 1775 the messenger was delayed - the real reason is unknown
but most versions include both booze and women. When the messenger finally
arrived the grapes have already rotted on the vines but was harvested anyway. On
first tasting the wonders of noble rot was discovered. The result was Spätlese or Late Harvest, a particularly sweet dessert wine. (Another German favorite Eiswein - literally ice wine because it is harvested only once the grapes have literally frozen on the vines - was also first produced here in 1858.)
Spätlese brought Schloss Johannisberg fame and glory, which had its
negative results. Napoleon passed by en route to bigger battles and gave the
vineyard to Marshall Kellerman. He famously sold the harvest in advance to Mumm
a wine dealer in Cologne for 32,000 guilders. Once tasted the 1811 harvest was
declared a Jahrhundertwein (once in a century wine) and Mumm sold it for
150,000 guilders. That is commonly known as the 5 per cent markup that
traders prefer.
After the fall of Napoleon the winery was given to Fürst von Metternich, the
archconservative chancellor of Austria as award for his services at the Congress
of Vienna which redrew the map of Europe following the fall of Napoleon. The
winery is still partly owned by his descendents and a small percentage of
profits are still paid to the descendents of the Austrian Imperial family. The Sekt (sparkling wine) produced here bears the name Fürst von Metternich.
Although most of the palace is closed to the public the outside of the
elegant buildings can be seen. There is also a surprisingly unassuming
restaurant with reasonable prices and very tasty dishes on the premises. It
offers a wonderful view of the Rhine, which is wide and fairly slow flowing at
this point. In summer outdoor seating is available on a big terrace. A small
wine shop with tasting facilities is also available.
The palace was damaged by aerial bombing during the Second World War but was
restored and is in a beautiful condition. The Romanesque church was also
restored in a rather bare fashion, which probably resembles it origins more than
the pre-bombed version.
Many hiking routes cross or start from this area and easy paved walking ways
are available in the immediate vicinity with superb views of the Rhine and the
vineyards.