The original Bell tower was constructed in the 1300s but was rebuilt in 1739, presumably to be more central to the town’s population. Believe it or believe it not, the tower derived its name from the fact that a large iron bell was struck throughout the day to let the townsfolk know the time. Now a bell is on show, but it's not the original, nor is it the town’s "clock" – it’s purely used for tourists to have their photographs taken against.

The tower is a squat building set on a stone base with arched entrances at the four main compass points. Two staircases with ornate rails meet, above the northern arch, at the first level of the tower. This level accommodates the replica bell, in its original position on the northwest corner. Three curvaceous roofs rise above us as we admire the misty view from the bell site before entering the building to climb to the second floor. And what a truly magnificent room – a stage full of bells dominates the room and a flamboyant ceiling, decorated in every nook and cranny with scrolls and flowers in gorgeously rich colours. We’re lucky that in 20 minutes, there is to be a free concert on stage – just time to investigate the outside and the top floor.

The walk round the outside "terrace" gave uninterrupted views of the town (although the mist gave it an eerie appearance). Whilst taking our walk around the external terrace we spent some considerable time admiring the scenes painted on the outside of the walls. All were primitive paintings on timber with bright, unsubtle colours. Each had a small plaque giving a helpful description, in English, of what the scene was depicting – all allegorical and some with good amusement value. These scenes of tranquil rural life, however, will often be disturbed by the loudspeakers at the nearby shopping mall and the rumble of Xian’s traffic.

Upstairs by a narrow and steep internal staircase is yet another room with an even more magnificent ceiling. There were various artefacts (some great ceramics and ancient carvings) and a display of Chinese calligraphy artwork – allegedly by the "master" of the craft. I can’t quite see the art in a calligraphy poster, but perhaps I’m missing something.

We sat down on the front row, ordered a drink, and settled in to enjoy the concert. It lasted about 15 minutes, and the typical Chinese music (with an Oriental version of Auld Lang Syne!) was played on the bells and other classic eastern instruments. I was fascinated by the woman who played the largest bells with what looked like an old log!

In the daylight, it looks like many other exotic Chinese buildings, except this one has a very prominent place in the city, right in the center. It's set in the middle of a roundabout, and the four main roads go out from it in each direction. Apparently its original purpose was to tell time, but now it is a tourist attraction. You can go up in it for about Y15, or you can save a few kuai and buy admission for it and the Drum Tower for Y25. We got in through the pedestrian tunnel that goes under the street. There are some souvenir vendors down below; they probably are a little high priced.

Once you climb to the second level, there is a very large, heavy bell. You can ring the bell for Y5, for up to three rings, by hitting it with a small log. Why would you want to ring the bell? The Chinese are a very superstitious people. One ring is for happiness, two rings is for health, three rings is for luck. If you want all three, I guess you would have to pay Y15. My son paid the 5 kuai and the lady told him to ring the bell three times. Maybe she knew he was already happy and healthy!

On both the second and third levels you can walk around the outside of the tower, and get some very nice views of the city. From here you can see the gates in the city wall to both the south and west.

Inside the second level is a stage where musicians play traditional music several times a day. There is a huge stand that goes across the back of the stage with many bells. Two people play these, while four others play other instruments.

There isn't much on the third level, I can't even remember what it was. But it's worth going up there just to see the ceiling. The ceiling and ceiling beams are painted in what I believe is probably Qin dynasty style -- it's a work of art.

I think the Bell Tower might stay open a little longer than the Drum Tower, which closes at six. If it is open later, there weren't any shows that late. I would recommend going early enough to catch the show and have a good view of the city.