Cathedrale St. Etienne - Auxerre

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Editor Pick

Gothic Cathedral by Night

Gothic Cathedral by Night

A very rainy summer night, you've just rolled into the crossroads town of Auxerre, what do you do? Go to the "son et lumiere" show at the cathedral, of course! St. Etienne, one of the older gothic cathedrals of France, totally dominates the town. It's set up on a hill.along with the rest of the town center, and that enhances the impression of size even further, not that it needs it. Some inevitable scaffolding around the entrance didn't detract from our enjoyment at all.

The crypt, inherited from an earlier romanesque version of the cathedral, is the oldest part of the existing structure. It dates to the early 11th century. Almost 1000 years old! After the towers of that roman structure collapsed in 1217, the building of the current high gothic cathedral began, and most of the present edifice, including the nave and transcept, dates from the 13th and 14th centuries. Other parts, such as the main northwest tower are a little newer (early 1500s).

My daughter and I had to take advantage of the opportunity to be inside this magnificent cathedral after dark by attending their sound and light show. The interior is every bit as impressive as the exterior. The soaring vaulted gothic ceiling, relatively narrow nave, and huge supporting columns really puts a puny human in his place against the grandeur of God's house here. A few bats escape from the belfry and flit around, just to add to the eerie feeling you get being in this ancient place after dark.

The sound and light show isn't anything high-tech or over-the-top at all. They simply illuminate different parts to highlight some aspect of the story they tell. You're given little hand sets (sort of like you get touring some museums) to listen to the audio portion of the program which you can tune to english or the language of your choice. The program mostly explains the history of the town and cathedral and its early bishops, which includes an amazing number of saints. Before or after the program, you're free to wander around a little bit and see more of the church. The workers collecting the nominal admission and handing out the handsets seemed very happy that we had come to enjoy their program, which lasted less than an hour.

We had a grand time visiting St. Etienne at night and it was an enjoyable way to learn the history of the place.

From journal A Mix of Short Getaways in Southeast France

Editor Pick

Cathedrale St-Etienne - Auxerre

  • September 8, 2003
  • Rated 4 of 5 by moatway from Riverview, New Brunswick
Cathedrale St-Etienne - Auxerre

Auxerre sits over the River Yonne, the cathedral on the bluff dominating its surroundings. The sight of it compels the traveller to approach; it really is beautiful on the exterior. It is a fine Gothic building started in 1215 and completed by 1500. On the ground around the cathedral, buildings crowd up to its walls, with the exception of the parking area immediately in front of its doors. Nevertheless, the cathedral is so dominant that one can't help but admire the flying buttresses that support the high walls of the nave and circle the rear of the building.

As the visitor approaches, he is struck by a sense of imbalance. The tower on the left, the south tower, was never completed. Had it been, the approach would have been reminiscent of Paris' Notre Dame. Above the central doorway is a rose window buried in the facade.

This is a cathedral of beautiful stained glass. Each of the transepts features its own rose window, God the Father on the south, the Virgin Mary on the north. A series of circular windows appears between the buttresses at the highest point of the walls.

Other features of the cathedral are the tower which is scalable, the crypt and the treasury. This cathedral is a jewel. . . well worth a visit.

From journal Three Burgundian Towns

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