The Plaza Mayor is the heart of the city, geographically and culturally. It’s never empty – at 6:00 or 7:00 in the morning the last of the late-night revellers mix amiably with early workers, delivering produce or setting out chairs and tables – but it is busiest around 7:00 or 8:00 in the evening, when the whole square fills up with couples and families, wandering around. The children clamber on the plastic cows or play games, and the adults watch each other, or whatever is happening; a reception at the town hall, political tub-thumping, charities raising money, or, last week, the guardia civil displaying their goods.

The shops in the arcades cover all needs – bars and eateries, of course, souvenir shops and upmarket jewellers, but also bakers, a small department store, and the main fresh fish market just down the steps at the side. You could spend all day here without getting bored, or feeling remotely guilty about wasting your time.