Our Islamic tour of Cairo included a lengthy visit to the Citadel and four mosques, accompanied by our official guide, Mohammed. We were careful to dress appropriately, covering our arms and legs out of respect. The exterior and interior features and designs of each mosque were unique, but all shared certain characteristics such as minarets, an ablution area in the courtyard, and domed ceilings and prayer rugs inside. Prior to entering, we removed our shoes as expected, and David was surprised that I knew to put the soles together. Some of the mosques provided turbans for tourists wearing shorts or skirts, so that they were covered shoulder to toe while inside.
The mosques were beautiful and unique. I found myself preferring to look at the artistic architectural details, absorbing the mosques visually, instead of listening to our guide describe each pattern on the ceiling, walls, dome, stairway and ablution area. At one ablution area, we sat for an hour listening to such details. Information overload. I found myself tuning out. (It didn't help that our tour zipped through lunch. No food or water in that hot sun until 4pm made me a little dehydrated and crazy.)
We spent most of our time at the Citadel, a fortress perched high on a hill overlooking Cairo. This walled complex housed those who ruled Egypt from 12th to 19th century. It contains three mosques and several small museums. Mohammed Ali was the last ruler to live in the complex, and his palace and mosque dominate the structures. Inside his Diamond Palace, his throne and furnishings still exist from 1811. The large reception room where Ali invited 500 of his allies, then slaughtered them after a celebration feast can be seen--even the massive wooden benches that concealed the weapons.
The Mosque of Mohammed Ali, built in 1830, was gorgeous. The interior (Prayer Hall) had elaborate patterns and decorations on the ceiling, which included five huge domes, fifteen smaller domes, and 365 lanterns. Expansive red carpet invited us to sit, relax and appreciate the beauty. Locals were seen praying on their rugs along one wall. The spacious courtyard outside contains an ornate ablution fountain, where Muslims carefully wash each body part prior to going inside to pray.
Mosque of Sultan En-Nasir, also located in the Citadel, dates from 1318. The most impressive feature of this mosque was it's unique wooden ceiling from India.
Next we visited Mosque of Ibn Tulun, on Kadri Street. Built in 876, it is one of the largest and oldest mosques in the world. This one looked and felt old. I liked the rather simplistic style and quietness that permeated through the massive limestone structures. No tourists here either. Just one person praying in a sun-filled courtyard decorated with colored, patterned tiles.
Hours are generally from 8-5, but visitors are not be allowed during the five prayer times each day, including a two hour block Friday afternoons. Admission to the Citadel was 20 pounds and 6 pounds for other mosques.