If you are staying in Salzburg and would like to explore the region’s natural wonders then a visit to Werfen and the Ice Caves is a must. Werfen is 48km south of Salzburg (right on the trainline, so easily accessible) and has the world’s largest ice caves – know as Eisriesenwelt – which translates to "World of Giants". The village of Werfen is also home to the spectacular Castle Hohenwerfen which was built in the 11th Century and is very prominent from anywhere in the region.
The caves themselves are found in the Tennengebirge Mountains of Salzburg Province and overlook the Salzach River Valley. They were first ‘officially’ discovered in the late 19th century by a bloke called Anton Posselt (but no-one really took much notice) and didn’t become popular with visitors until after 1912. The caves are open in summer (May- October) and an adult ticket costs €17 for combined cable car and cave tour.
But these caves are not easily accessibly. At about 1700 metres (5500 feet) there are 42 kms of tunnels and chambers that make up "Eisriesenwelt" – although you can only really explore the first kilometre or so. You can only explore the caves in a guided group as you are led in single file with lanterns passed to every 5th person or so to provide light. You climb through 134 metres of pathway around the various stalagmites, stalactites, ice walls smoothed by wind forces and natural ice sculptures formed over time – some were 1000 yrs old. At different points along the tour the guide will walk behind various ice structures and light a flare providing brilliant colour scheme backdrops and details through the ice.
The tour lasts about one hour 20mins culminating with the "Ice Palace" at the end. This is an amazing sculpture that had everyone in awe especially when the flares lit it up. When we were there in summer 2002 it was pretty warm outside (about 30 deg C) and averaging 0 deg C inside. Quite a contrast so be sure you dress for the occasion – ie like an onion. Also you’ll have to have a reasonable level of fitness as there is a bit of hiking involved.
Getting there is easy. Coming in from Salzburg by train we simply hopped on a mini-bus cab from Werfen Hauptplatz (the main square) that took us the 6ms up to the Eisriesenwelt parking lot. Next you have to walk about 15 minutes up to the cable car (called the Wimmer Hütte) which will then take you from 1000 -1575 metres in three minutes and gives a fantastic view over the lower valley. This then arrives at the Dr.-Oedl Haus, a cool little Gasthaus that has snacks and food and is a great excuse for a beer at the completion of ice tour. From this kiosk it’s another 15-minute (fairly steep) walk up to the entrance of the caves.