Description: Although the flow of the Rhône divides Geneva into two fairly equal halves, the majority of the things that I particularly enjoyed whilst there were on the Left Bank of the river. As well as being home to the charming
Old Town, the area also has various other decent sights in the more modern sections, all of which makes it a real pleasure to explore.
Among the nicest things that it has to offer are the lovely lakeside stretches of greenery, such as the quite centrally located English Garden, which is a popular gathering spot for young locals, and also attracts many tourists, who are drawn by the famous but perhaps overrated Flower Clock. As the name suggests, a colourful and pleasantly arranged flowerbed makes up the face of the timepiece, which is as precise and accurate as most other things in Switzerland.
Nearby is another enduring and well-known symbol of the city, the Jet d'Eau, which fires many gallons of water upwards into the air to a height of almost 500 feet, and is therefore considered to be the world’s largest fountain. Given that it generally does not function during the winter months, seeing the huge man-made geyser in operation was a wonderful surprise on New Year's Day, which raised spirits that were then suffering due to the celebrations of the night before. One thing that is worth noting is that depending on the direction of the wind, going for a closer look can result in a soggy reminder of Newton's supposed saying, "What goes up must come down"!
Another fine place to spend some time when the weather is good is Bastions Park, which lies at the foot of the old fortifications. Dominating the gardens is an absolutely massive and rather epic early 20th century monument that commemorates the Reformation. However, the giant statues of Calvin and his counterparts are not the only oversized things found in the gardens. Several chessboards complete with large pieces are marked on the ground in one place, and watching the games that are invariably taking place there is a surprisingly entertaining activity.
There are also many interesting cultural sights in the vicinity, including several on the beautiful Place Neuve, such as the stately neo-baroque Grand Theatre and the Rath Museum, which hosts well-regarded temporary exhibitions. Meanwhile, seeing the so-called Little Palace’s private collection of 20th century artwork was a tempting option, but sadly it was not open at the time of my visit.
However, the half million items on show in the Museum of Art and History should provide more than adequate compensation for any such disappointments. Among the classical antiquities, medieval artefacts, and works by Cézanne, Picasso, Rodin, and many others was one particularly unusual and fascinating piece by Konrad Witz. Although his biblical scene of Christ astounding the fishermen by walking on water is familiar, the setting is recognisably but oddly the local lake.
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