Housed in the former military academy where Ataturk once studied, the Military Museum is a huge, quiet place filled with artifacts that trace the history of Turkey's military campaigns from the 1453 taking of Constantinople through modern times. Guns and weaponry, armor, an extensive uniform collection and medals are exhibited in church-like silence. The artistry of ornate 15th century daggers and latter day jewel-studded military medals is striking. One particularly sobering exhibit features a car in which a Pasa was assasinated, along with the victim’s bloody uniform. Examples of lavish field tents are also on exhibit. The museum’s display techniques are cutting-edge, with exhibits housed in large climate controlled glass cases that light up when visitors approach. Brief commentaries in English are available for most of the displays.
Of particular interest is a room dedicated to the memory and accomplishments of Ataturk (Mustafa Kemal Pasa), whom every Turk you meet will solemnly tell you is "the National Hero of Turkey." Ataturk ("Father of the Turks") instigated the Turkish War of Independence to regain lost territories, establishing the nation’s boundaries that exist today. He also established a rigorous plan of social and political change, which is responsible for everything from the banning of the fez to the abolition of the Sultanate. He is also credited with fostering rights for women and encouraging the westernization of Turkey. Everything from Ataturk's military medals to his pajamas are on display. The exhibit gives visitors a good idea of how important and revered the founder of the Turkish republic is.
We initially went to the museum to attend a performance of the famed Mehter Janissary Band ( our private guide Anna suggested that we go. Founded in the 14th century as an elite force for the express purpose of protecting the Sultan, the Janissaries were instrumental in the early expansion of the Ottoman Empire. Once highly disciplined and revered, the Janissaries abused their power in the 17th century and mutinied against several sultans. They were deposed in the 1820s, but their distinctly Turkish music lives on at the Military Museum, where the Mehter Band performs Wednesday through Sunday from 3-4 p.m. The rousing marches that once accompanied the Sultans into battle are haunting and inspiring (and are even thought to have influenced Mozart). The impressive performance is held in a specially designed indoor/outdoor amphitheater within the Museum. Clad in bright costumes, the band plays instruments that hark back to the days of the early Sultans. A single strong, driving kettledrum, played with theatrical flair by a gentleman with commanding presence provides the infectious beat for the songs, which center on traditional Ottoman themes. Corps of horn players, drummers fill the theater with music that instantly invokes images of stately, indulgent sultans. It was truly memorable.
While the Military Museum is a bit out of the way, I strongly recommend making the effort to see it, if only to attend the band performance. The entire experience was extremely worthwhile.