When you’ve fended off your twentieth carpet salesman in Sultanahmet, which is generally about the same time that you’ve developed ‘tourist neck’ from milling endlessly with your fellow tourists, head tilted back gazing at the ceilings of Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, you might find yourself in the mood for something more relaxing. Less regulated. More hedonistic. Less antiquarian. More 21st century. Something…. different.

That’s the time to jump in a taxi and head across to the opposite shore, to Taksim Square in the Beyoglu district. There, on Istiklal Caddesi, you can slip effortlessly into the stream of humanity and stroll anonymously to your heart’s content, practically assured that no one will take notice of you. That sign you imagined you were wearing in Sultanahmet, the one proclaiming in foot-high crimson letters, "RICH TOURIST," will vanish. The people in Beyoglu, you see, have their own agenda, and you’re not on it. They’re out to enjoy themselves: to shop, eat, drink, dance, sing, socialize, and, well, a few other activities I’ll leave to your imagination.

Your taxi driver will most likely drop you off in the confusing swirl of Taksim Square, the central transportation hub. Ranged around the square are the Atatürk Cultural Center, the Marmara Hotel, and the metro station. Istiklal Caddesi is easy to spot, however – it’s where the majority of people are heading. The street is closed to traffic, though an antique tram plies up and down its mile-long length. You can walk down the street and take the tram back up, if you like, or proceed all the way down past the end of the street, to Galata Tower. Be aware, though, that many of the area’s attractions lie just off the street, in the maze of sidestreets and small covered markets.

Beyoglu was traditionally the area where foreigners lived back in the days of the sultans, and it still retains its international flavor. Numerous consulates and wealthy residences line the streets; Istiklal Caddesi (or "Independence Street") was once called the Grand Rue de Pera (‘pera’ meaning ‘opposite shore,’ where the foreign enclave lived). Imagine, if you will, a scene from the late 19th or early 20th century, when the streets were gas lit and French-speaking sophisticates in top hats and minor Russian princesses in ostrich-plumed hats walked its cobbled streets. Today, the once gracious area is awash in restaurants, book shops, night clubs, cinemas, and every form of entertainment imaginable, but some of the stately beauties of yesterday still prevail, such as the Pera Palas Hotel, where passengers on the famed Orient Express stayed, among them Agatha Christie, who wrote Murder on the Orient Express there.

Whether enjoying the Belle Epoque sights of yesterday or frequenting the hip bistros of today, you’re sure to find something that quickens your pulse on this vibrant, urban street. Its cosmopolitan charms never pall.

Its name means "Independence Avenue" and is lined with all the hip shops, the cafés, the restaurants, music and bookstores, mosques, embassies, souvenir shops and some street vendors as well as a fish market which I found in one of the alleys. Do not disregard the alleys; they are literal treasure troves and you'll never know how to get back, but it's more fun that way.

The tram was part of a re-urbanization project, although you'd think it had been there for hundreds of years. You are now in the Asian side of Turkey, which is called the new city. We never did see the "sleazy sex clubs" and bars which they claimed were way up in the back streets. It must have been WAY up. Come hungry because your eyes will fill faster than your stomach here. Chuck and I were literally mesmerized watching 3 women in the front section of a restaurant, making pide and stuffing it with meat; it was like an assembly line, each movement probably rehearsed in their sleep, forming a perfect portion every time.

We gave into hunger (or greed) fairly quickly, and had a wonderful, very inexpensive mid-day meal. I cannot remember the name of the place, but I'm going to show you their food display. We also bought a large duffle bag for all of the things we had amassed during this 12 day trek. We checked out a music store; Chuck straight to the CD section and I went to look at the books. The music was very loud, Turkish, and sounded like rock. I also visited one of the many "lingerie" shops which are so very popular here. Most of these undergarments are sold in sets of 6 or 7 pieces, as a trousseau for a bride to be. The work is meticulous and everything is locally made; Turkey has a bustling clothing industry that can rival any designer you can name. The sales staff at this particular place told me that the women that are covered up to their eyeballs on the street come in and purchase these flimsy, lacey, delicate teddies and nighties. It's an amazing contrast to what you see on the streets.

As we neared one of the mosques on the street, a little girl came out and wanted us to purchase a personal tissue packet. It's a nicer way of begging for money, although you really don't see much of that in Istanbul proper, much more into the countryside. If you are not claustrophobic, go there and immerse yourself in the crowd. It's an unforgettable experience.