We were positively stunned upon entering the bazaar, and landed into "gold alley". You wonder how it is that people survive selling the exact same thing as the guy next door. You can haggle here to your heart's content, and it is expected. Its corridors, alleys within alleys, are covered with ribbons of tourists babbling in every conceivable language.

You'll see Turkish carpets, pottery, jewelry, olive oil soaps, clothing, shoes, souvenirs galore, statuettes, lots of blue evil eye symbols which are put on everything from glass mugs to t-shirts. There were enough leather jacket places to fill all of Macy's. Crystal goods, copper trinkets, small cafés, tea and sweets (as in helwah, or halvah, as we call it), sandals, shoes & magnificent decorative chargers made of Iznik and other tiles.

Vendors will try to bring you into their shop or stall; you can say no politely and continue. This bazaar is like a labyrinth; it has over 4,000 shops in its domed passages. It is impossible to see Istanbul without a day or two here.

Many things you can think of are for sale within the bazaar - leatherwork is common, for example, with lots of places selling jackets, shoes, slippers, bags, etc. We looked at a couple of jackets, but found the quality was a bit variable – some were very well made, others less so. If you intend buying one, I’d check the stitching and cut carefully before you part with your money. Should you find one you like, that is well made, it’ll be a bargain.

One street we looked at with interest was entirely given over to jewellery, much of it gold. Turkish jewellery is quite exuberant, and elaborate. There was also some Lapis for sale, which I like very much, but feel awkward about buying given its Afghanistan, Taliban-funding origins.

Of course, the biggest category of things for sale appears to be carpets, that renowned Turkish product. Carpet salesmen are the pushiest of the lot, and tails of scams abound among travellers and guidebooks. If you are careful, look around, and buy something you like at a price you are happy with, then a Turkish carpet can be a great purchase. I’d personally be very careful of spending a lot of money on one, other than at a very reputable shop. I looked at several shops on my first trip to Istanbul in 1997, before buying a small Kelim, a type of wool rug. It’s approximately 2 foot by 4 foot in size, with geometric patterns in red, light blue, navy blue, and cream. It has been on the floor of my room for the last 4 years, and has proved hard-wearing and attractive. It cost me about 8 pounds, and I regard it as money very well spent.

The bazaar is open Monday to Saturday, from 8:30am to 6pm.

The bazaar grew from shops that lined the streets. Then the space between them was covered over for more convenient shopping. The resulting arcades were covered with roofs and arches. Each street became the center of one particular trade.

At the center of the covered bazaar is the bedestan, a section dedicated to the antiques. The bazaar is entered through four main gates, the Gates of the Goldsmiths, the Cap-Makers, the Woman’s Garments and the Jewelers. The main streets were named the streets of the Tent-Makers, Quilt-Makers, Fur Hat-Makers, etc.. Outside the western gate to the bazaar, through a doorway, is the Old Book Bazaar where you can buy both new editions and antique volumes in Turkish and other languages.

Come to the Grand Bazaar to shop, browse through the numerous shops, or simply admire the architecture. Experience the Turkish salesmanship and hospitality. Don't be afraid to accept a cup of apple tea from a willing salesman. But remember to bargain. The first price is never the last price !