I do remember liking the old bazaar - where supposedly antiques are sold. It is quieter and the wares are more interesting. However, no matter where you are in the bazaar, you cannot stop for even a moment to browse without being pelted with sales maneouvering. Really - you can't even look at something for a second. So shopping was difficult. We ended up at one place, drinking apple tea as Alli bargained for a tea set and I bought a lamp. We both overpaid significantly, and I actually got cheated. We were asked to go out later that evening for dinner, and I was kissed on the hand as I left while Alli was kissed on the cheek! Eek!

So, later I found out that he gave me the wrong change, knowing I would confuse the 100,000L note with the 1,000,000L note. That wiped out all my bargaining. And then he packed my purchases away out of my sight and forgot to include the "extra" hook he had thrown in. At this rate, I didn't ever want to dare bargain again.

The coolest part of the market is at the center, an antique section. Careful exploring around here - it's so easy to get lost. We found an exit, right into an old book bazaar and near Beyazit Square.

The bazaar's elaborate entrance is hard to miss, and when you see it, you know you have truly entered the world of Arabian Nights.

Almost the entire bazaar is covered, so it's a great place to go if it's raining, or too hot. If you still get too hot, just wander into any carpet shop and they will close the door and turn on the AC, plunging the small room into subarctic temperatures in no time at all.

The shops sell almost everything. What was missing (and what I much preferred about the Moroccan medina) were the craftsmen creating the goods. Nothing is made in the bazaar; it's all imported (sometimes even from Turkey) and just sold here.

Although all the guide books warned us about how hopelessly lost you will certainly get, we found this was totally not the case. Not only were there street signs and tourist information signs up everywhere, but the layout of the city is pretty straightforward, with many landmarks (like the old bazaar) helping to locate you when you get lost. But again, nothing (and I mean nothing) compares to the complexity and confusingness of the market in Fez!

The Grand Bazaar is an easy 10 minute walk up the tram tracks from Sultanahmet. It is another *must see* when visiting Istanbul.

Be prepared to haggle. They expect it. You should never buy something for more than 50% of the original asking price. As the day wears on, sales get better - especially if the shopkeepers have had a bad sales day. After we finally agreed on buying a carpet, we got into a great conversation with the shopkeeper - we talked to him for an hour after closing. It's a great opportunity to meet Turkish people. It was clear to us that their friendliness wasn't just a ploy to get us to buy, as it continued well after the sale, even when we made it clear that we wouldn't be back in Istanbul for a long time, if ever.

Although a lot of deals can be had, a lot of ripoff's can also be had. It's been said that the Grand Bazaar has the best and the worst of Turkish shopping, and I have to agree. Be aware of the prices and set expectations before you enter the bazaar.

A laundry list of my numerous purchases indicates what’s available:
* Dozens of glass medusa’s eyes (varying sizes)
* Turkish flag t-shirt
* Loose spices such as saffron and cumin
* Five spice sets (there are many varieties)
* Inlaid wood and mother of pearl backgammon set
* Two hookahs, one 3-foot bronze and one painted glass
* Two hanging lanterns (metal and fabric)
* Loose black and apple teas
* Various bracelets and earrings
* Two embroidered throw blankets with sewn-in mirrored pieces
AND (drum roll here)
* Two gorgeous handmade Turkish rugs!!

The endless rows of vendors call out in a deafening cacophony of such lines as "for you, special price!" or "I have many things beautiful like you," et cetera. The aggressive selling techniques are commonplace—it’s rare to go by a quiet stall or a passive vendor, unless the man is tired or on a break, say, during Friday prayer.

Which reminds me, Friday midday is a less hectic environment than usual. Many Muslims attend a Friday service, and inside the Grand Bazaar is no exception. There is a mosque on premises and the call to prayer is heard throughout the halls of the bazaar. At this time, you'll have less vendors to choose from than usual, but it is also a mellower scene and you can still buy anything you want, as so many booths sell very similar products.

Bargain to your heart's content! This is most definitely expected behavior, and the set prices and even the "special price just for you" are incredibly inflated. I bought a gorgeous, weighty, bronze hookah with calligraphic and vegetal designs for a fraction of what my "final" deal was to be. This occurred near closing, which is good trick to know: Salesmen will generally come down much farther in price by the end of the day as they either just really need to make a sale or sometimes because they more than made up for it by overcharging unsuspecting (or generous) patrons earlier in the day.

It also never hurts to hang out and befriend your salesmen. Not only might you get a couple really great deals, but also you'll learn a great lot about the business of the bazaar and about Istanbul itself. For the most part, I found the vendors respectful and very eager to talk and practice English. Many even served me apple tea and a few even had seats brought for my companions and me! They certainly won my loyal business by doing such things, but more importantly they enhanced my affinity for this extraordinary but crazy place.

Other than Kusadasi, the salespeople here were some of the most persistent we met but most were fine with a firm "no thanks".

The architecture of the Bazaar is really interesting - the outside reminded me of a mosque, without the minarets. Inside, some of the sections in the middle were built in the 15th century and the colors and designs on the walls and ceilings were breathtaking.

As well as stores, there are a number of restaurants and small stands where you can get a snack or a cup of tea (chai) and if you're lucky enough to find an empty table, you can rest up for your visit to the next section of shops.

It's easy to get lost in the Bazaar and we never managed to go out the same door we'd gone in but that just helped us to explore the areas around the Bazaar.

As well as the shops inside, enterprising vendors set up stalls or tables outside and sell everything from leather to housewares. Although prices were cheaper than inside, we still found it more expensive than the Spice Bazaar or other, less touristed areas of Istanbul.

Within easy walking distance of the Bazaar, you'll find Istanbul University and Beyazit Camii, the oldest standing mosque in Istanbul.

The Grand Bazaar is about 15 minutes on foot from many of the major sights like the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya. A tram line runs nearby so it's easy to get to and from most points in Istanbul.