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Beyoglu District

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Hajo
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4 out of 5
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Editor Pick

Istiklal Caddesi - The First Street of Europe

Istiklal Caddesi - The First Street of Europe

Istanbul is a European city. There may be concern within some EU member states as to whether Turkey is a European country, but there can be no doubt that this city is European. And if there is any doubt, there is one easy cure: visit Istiklal Caddesi.

Istiklal Caddesi is the pre-eminent address in Istanbul. It cuts through the heart of the district of Beyoğlu. A 1.5km long pedestrianised street, it is lined with shops, restaurants and bars. Yet more cluster on its side- and parallel-streets. It is thick with crowds at seemingly any time of the day or night; Istanbul at play. In the 19th century this was known as the Grand Rue de Pera and those who promenaded its length were the merchants, diplomats, bankers and brokers of the Great Powers. Russian, Swedish, Dutch, French, Italian and British consulates still sit on or near it. Now it is still a place to see and be seen, but those who congregate here are primarily Turkish, young, and affluent. The average age seemd to be somewhere around 26. Designer clothes and styled hair are the norm. A scruffy backpacker like me definitely let the side down!

Walking down Istiklal is a must when visiting Istanbul. Seeing the modern face of this historic city is important to see both sides of the story; no longer a decaying ancient capital, Istanbul is a vibrant, forward-looking metropolis, the equal of many European capitals. And there are plenty of places to stop off en route. There are numerous coffee shops and juice bars along the way. Other bars line the side-streets. Music echoes down the passageways and the rainbow flag flies freely. The Balik Pazari along Nevizade Sokak is the fish market, and the restaurants here specialise in seafood.

If you do not want to walk 1.5km each way, there is a dinky red antique tram that covers the route between Tűnel Meydani and Taksim periodically.

The northern end of Istiklal is anchored by the massive Taksim Square. Turks are inordinately proud of their Taksim, though heaven alone knows why. Grubby, whizzing with traffic, framed by brutalist modern architecture, it looks the sort of place you would expect to find in a former-Soviet central Asian republic. Its one saving grace is a small thread-bare park (Taksim Parki) with shady trees.

As I was staying in Sultanahmet I approached from the south, over the Galata Bridge. This stretches over the famed Golden Horn. A constant stream of boats passes beneath its middle. Restaurants and bars line its lower levels. The footpaths above are lined with anglers. They all seem to have great success with fish. Several of them also sell pots of shrimps; the pots seem to sit out in the sun all day so I decided that much as I love shrimps I’d give them a miss!

Having crossed the bridge you will find yourself in the port area of Karaköy. From here roads climb up the hill toward Beyoğlu. Quicker and easier than slogging all that way up by foot to to take the Tűnel. This is a one stop funicular underground line with its lower entrance just left off Karaköy Caddesi on Tersane Cadessi. The fare is 1TL. Give your money to the cashier and they will provide a jeton to get through the barriers. The train is modern, though there never seemed to be quite enough seats whenever I used it. It heads off steeply; even the platform at the upper station is slanted. This leads out into Tűnel Meydani, the pretty square that anchors the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi. The Tűnel runs from 8am to 9pm every day.

Rather than pay money to travel back down the slope I decided to walk. This is something I highly recommend. The precipitous pathway leads through a charming area of bars and music stores. Window displays showcase everything you would need to start your own rock band. The vibe is very chilled out, with less of the posing you might find on Istiklal. The chief attraction is the Galata Tower, a tall cylindrical tower built by the Genoese in 1349 that is still the most eye-catching structure on the Istanbul skyline. The views from the walkway just below its conical roof are said to be the best in Istanbul. Naturally there is a price to pay.

Crossing back across the Golden Horn and emerging into crowds of headscarves and hustlers, tourists and touts, submerges you once again into the wonders of the ancient orient. But the time spent in the vibrant and cosmopolitan areas around Istiklal Caddesi should leave a lasting impression of Istanbul as a modern and European city.

From journal Holy of Holies

Editor Pick

Beyoglu District

  • May 21, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Hajo from Witten, Germany

Taksim Square and the Beyoglu area is the center of modern street life in Istanbul. A shopping paradise during daytime and a party venue at night.

In the Beyoglu pedestrian zone, you can find all Turkish and international brand name stores. Of the more up-market choices I would definitely recommend the Vakko store for excellent suites, shirts and ties. The shops get cheaper and simpler, but not necessarily worse in quality, as you move further away from Taksim Square on the pedestrian zone. Many shops offer tailor-made suits and shirts at real bargain prices. I guess you would have to travel all the way to Bangkok to find a tailor-made suite for the prices offered in Istanbul.

One of my favorite stops in the Beyoglu pedestrian zone is the Flower Bazaar where, apparently, you can buy everything except flowers. Most of this market is occupied with food stalls which exude the scents of the oriental cuisine. One side-wing is filled with shops selling artwork, textiles and jewelry. Once at the Flower Bazaar, you should eat Istavrit, tiny fried fish which is eaten like crisps. Or try a glass of Turkish aphrodisiac which looks like honey, but is made from almonds and nuts. The Flower Bazaar is interlinked with Cicek Passage which hosts many typical Turkish bars and small restaurants. Left out by most foreign travelers, Cicek Passage is a place where you can easily get in contact with locals and join a small party over a bottle of Rake and some old Turkish songs.

Just around the corner from the Flower Bazaar lies Pano Sakophanensis, a Greek bar with excellent wines and small snacks. It is very popular with the local youth as well as with expats. The place is always packed at night and you might have to queue for a while before you get a table. But it's well worth the wait, although the staff can be a bit rough at busy times.

My favourite Istanbul nightclub, the Andon, in also not far away, on 89 Siraselviler Caddesi, a side street of Taksim Square. Spread over four floors, it includes a disco, pub, wine bar and tavern. The best place for a drink and a light meal is the tavern on the top level, with a perfect view overlooking the Bosphorus.

Beyoglu also has its own small Bosphorus harbour, Kabatas. Boats depart from here to the Virgin Tower, which stands on a rock in the middle of the Bosphorus. The Virgin Tower was only opened to visitors in Autumn 2000, and a museum has since followed suit on this site. The view from the Virgin Tower is one of the most spectacular to be enjoyed in Istanbul.

From journal Insider Guide to Istanbul's hotspots

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