Basilica Cistern

Ishtar
Ishtar
First Reviewer
4 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
8
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22
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Editor Pick

Drinking the Medusa's Tears in the Sunken Palace

Drinking the Medusa's Tears in the Sunken Palace

Istanbul has always been characterised as a city on the water. The views and traffic of the Bosphorus, Sea of Marmara, and Golden Horn make the city what it is. However, it was in 1545 that a French visitor by the name of Petrus Gyllius realised that Sultanahmet really was a city on water, and that a separate aquatic world lay just below his feet.

Today the rim of the Galata Bridge is crowded with anglers, and you can buy fried fish sandwiches down on the waterfront. What struck Gyllius was that despite being hemmed in by the sea on three sides, he was constantly seeing fresh freshwater fish for sale. Upon questioning the locals he was guided to cellars beneath the streets. Buckets lowered down would come up brimming with fresh water. And ladders led down into an echoing darkness, the only sound that of oars as the townsfolk rowed an immense underground lake in search of fresh catches of fish.

This underground world was properly no lake, but a manmade construction, as the regular placement of supporting columns showed. And after a sympathetic restoration job visitors can now descend into the atmospheric Yerebatan Sarayi (‘Sunken Palace’). Of course this was not a palace, but merely a cistern, probably constructed under Constantine the Great and Justinian in the 4th and 5th centuries, and supplied by aqueducts from the Belgrade Forest 12 miles away. But still, its survival is a great testament to the imperial masons who constructed it.

Entrance is via an unprepossessing ticket booth on Yerebatan Caddesi (10TL). Here you descend into this fantastical Hall-of-the-Mountain-King-type space. It is poularly known in English as the ‘Basilica Cistern’ because it was near the basilica of the Aya Sofya; however, its graceful columns and vaulted ceiling arches give it the impression of of an old romanesque church or crypt. There are 336 marble columns, each 9m tall, each 4.8m from its neighbour. In total the cistern is 140m by 70m, and has a capacity to store 80,000 cubic metres of water. M. Gyllius explored this vast space by boat in 1545. So did James Bond in From Russia With Love. (Ian Fleming loved to write about what he knew, so it is likely he had done similar prior to writing about it; however, it is the Sean Connery film that is most remembered. Of course, the Russian / Soviet consulate they went to eavesdrop on actually stands Istiklal Caddesi in Galata in real life fact fans).

Down in the darkness, ruddy uplighting and haunting eastern music create a ghostly atmosphere. It is more reminiscent of Dante than Fleming now – it could be a stand in for one of the levels of Hades itself, the cloaked Charon silently appearing to ferry souls across the Styx. However, there are no boats down here these days, just suspended duckwalks to lead you in to the forest of columns. It is a mysterious underground world. No more than a foot of water covers the paving beneath your feet, but it still provides a home to fish. Goldfish cluster in pools of light. A splash and a series of ripples out in the deeper water betrays the passage of a larger carp, kings of their watery world. Or at least I think they were carp. In this underworld it is impossible to be too certain…

The walkways channel you out into the furthest, darkest corner of this dripping, echoing space. Here, in an oddly angled crook of masonry you will find the mysterious medusae. Medusa was one of the three gorgons, sisters with snakes for hair. In Greek mythology her glance would turn mortals to stone. And yet here there are two immense carved heads in stone, two Medusas. Yet these were not placed as decorative features, but merely as column bases. One lies upon its side, seemingly crying a puddle of water; the other is totally inverted. But why use them at all? Why hide them down here in the furthest corner of this vast underworld, inverted and turned towards the wall? Constructed by Christian emperors the Basilica Cistern may have been, but it is clear that the old stories and myths still had the power to scare. Superstition may have prevented the destruction of these medusae; superstition may have prevented their remaining above ground. So instead they were secreted down here, lapped by the water that would have made its way into the drinks of emperors and sultans. Maybe this is why, I fancifully wondered, Istanbul is such a meeting-place of worlds – European and Asian, modern and ancient, splendid and decaying, Islamic and Christian and pagan. Had I too been drinking Medusa’s tears…?

From journal Holy of Holies

Impressive Experience

  • November 7, 2008
  • Rated 5 of 5 by oldscratch from New York, New York
Impressive Experience

I'll leave it to the other IgoUgo reviewers to describe the history of the Basilica Cistern, but I did want to say a few words about what a cool experience the Cistern was and highly recommend that visitors check it out.

Basically the Cistern is an ancient underground water tank supported by an impressive series of column. The combination of partially-submerged, endlessly-repeating columns and the dim yellow light makes for a particularly moody atmosphere, and like many people visiting the attraction, I suddenly had a flashback to the James Bond movie From Russia With Love in which 007 is quietly stalked from column to column by a bad guy.

A wooden walkway has been constructed to weave through the columns, and if you follow the walkway all the way to the back, you'll find two columns with a Medusa head base, one of which is upside down and one of which is on its side. The fact that no one really knows how they got there or why they're positioned so only adds to the overall eerie effect of the place.

From journal Three Days in Istanbul

Basilica Cistern - Yerebatan Saray

  • June 4, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by ArnyZona from Venlo, Netherlands
Basilica Cistern - Yerebatan Saray

The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saray) is an enormous water reservoir built in 532 by emperor Justinianus. It was build to provide the big palace with fresh drinking water. The roof of the vault is resting on more than 300 columns.

This great example of Byzantium architecture was kept hidden from most of the armies that conquered Istanbul (or Constantinople). It was discovered a century after the Osman occupation of the city. Some soldiers saw how civilians brought up buckets of water and even fished through holes in their cellar floors.

Nowadays, tourists can enjoy a walk over wooden scaffolding, with colored lights lighting up the columns. In the left corner of the basilica, two columns are resting on giant Medusa head.

A weird soundtrack mixing water drops with classical music, played from several speakers, accompanies the traveller.

In summer, the air can be very moist, so photographic equipment should be given time to get used to the intense moisture, or else every photo will have a grey fog, making the place even more spooky!

From journal Istanbul, a Cultural Clash of the Titans

Editor Pick

Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici)

  • July 28, 2003
  • Rated 5 of 5 by ShannonBrooke from Somerville, Massachusetts
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici)

This may be the coolest (literally) site in the Sultanahmet. After paying a small fee to enter, you descend into a dark, cavernous space. In addition to the music of dripping water, classical music is played as you wander the dark corridors of this ancient cistern.

Built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian using columns from the hippodrome and elsewhere, it lay undiscovered for some time after the Ottoman takeover. Then the Ottomans discovered some city residents could lower buckets into their basements and collect water. For years, it lay vacant until the late 20th century, when it became a tourist attraction.

All the columns are very old, and are lit up with tiny lights. This place is unbeatable for ambience.

One highlight of your visit will be seeing the overturned Medusa head blocks, which may have come from a shrine.

There are also still fish in the water. Photography Tips With its twinkling lights in the water and ancient columns, the cistern is an ideal place to take photographs.

Bring high speed film if you must use a point and shoot. Flash will not result in the best pictures. If you have the luxury of controlling the exposure, you can use slow film and your results will be less grainy. I used 800 speed film with satisfactory, if grainy, results.

If you are working without a tripod, rest your camera on the ground and use a long shutter speed to capture the ambience.

Here''s a tip to get a great overview shot of the cistern. As you are descending the staircase into the cistern, rest your camera on the steps facing out. Set up a long exposure with a high aperture to get all the details. Try 30 seconds with an aperture of 8. You will get a very atmospheric shot including the details of the vaulted ceiling. Practical Details Finding It Near the Aya Sofya, in the direction of Gulhane Park. There are clear signs marking the entrance. Hours Open 09:00-18:00 daily, except Monday (October to March : 09:00-17:00 )

From journal Istanbul in June

Underground Cistern

  • November 15, 2002
  • Rated 5 of 5 by isewell from Santa ROsa, California
Underground Cistern

This underground area is located between the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. It is a huge cave with 336 columns, with walkways leading you around the cave, over the water. Water drips down the roof above, and piped in classical music accompany the funky light show playing off the pillars and water. The cistern was created for the Topkapi Palace - it's served many purposes, from moving goods to watering the lawn. Watch your step as you walk here; the ground is often wet from the dripping water. Be sure to check out the sideways and upside down Medusa Head at the end of the cavern, whose origin is still debated today.

There is a cafe overlooking the water, where there are sometimes concerts. You exit the cavern through a set of a stairs leading to a bookstore with some English language books.

From journal Istanbul (not Constantinople)

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