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Re Carroll
Re Carroll
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Editor Pick

Between Europe and Asia

Between Europe and Asia

If I would recommend that the Topkapi Palace is the one sight to see in Istanbul, I would have to say that the one activity to do would be to get out on the water and take a boat ride up the Bosphorus.

Istanbul is built on the water. Sultanahmet is enclosed on three sides by the sea (clockwise, the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the Sea of Marmara). Ritzy suburbs straggle north along the strait, and almost half the city is located on the eastern (Asian) shore. The seas protected Constantinople from the Ottomans, brought wealth and luxuries to its palaces and caravanserais, were the object of military grabs by the Russians in the 1870s and the Allies in the First World War, and even today the Bosphorus is designated as an international shipping lane, running through the heart of Turkey’s largest city. One cannot know Istanbul without knowing the waters that are part of it.

There are several ways to get out on the water. Regular ferries connect Eminönü in the west to Üsküdar and Kadiköy on the eastern shore. You can take trips out to the peaceful Princes Islands south of the city. Or you can take a tour up the 19 mile Bosphorus to the Black Sea. It was this latter option that interested my friends and me.

Public ferries run up the Bosphorus from the terminals at Eminönü, north of Sirkeci and east of the Galata Bridge. These bunny hop from township to township up the length of the strait to Anadolu Kavaği, taking 90 minutes. The downside is this: they are scheduled services primarily for inhabitants of the metropolitan area, and hence do not allow you to travel to the end and then return straight away. The 13:35 ferry north for instance, gets you to the end of the line at 15:05; however the ferry south leaves Anadolu Kavaği at 15:00, leaving you stranded in a town that – other than a small ruined castle, views over the Black Sea, and some fish restaurants - does not seem to have that much to offer from comments on IgoUgo, write-ups in guide books, or word of mouth in Istanbul.

What our group decided to do instead was try to catch the eye of a charter boat captain. There were nine of us. The hope was that we could strike a bargain to have our own personal cruise. And it worked. We were approached by a man who could have been the very image of a salty sea dog – white shirt, yachting cap, and salt-and-pepper moustache. After a bit of haggling we dropped his asking price to 20TL per person. We had previously decided amongst us that we would be happy with that fare. And it meant that the nine of us got a boat to ourselves. Rather than 90 minutes up to the Black Sea and back though, we would be travelling half-way, up to the second bridge (the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge), and then turn back.

The waters of the Golden Horn are always thick with boats – ferries, cruise boats, smaller fishing vessels. It is a miracle that they manage not to hit each other, particularly whilst shooting the gap under the Galata Bridge. The Bosphorus itself is a major international shipping lane, and cargo ships, massive cruiseliners, and military destroyers chug through – our little boat felt dwarfed beneath their towering hulls. We did have one power though – if we waved at the tourists lining the rails of the cruisers we inevitably received waves back.

The heart of Istanbul looks like a tale of two cities from the water. To the south the low ridge of ‘old’ Istanbul is spiked with minarets, mosque domes, and glimpses of the Topkapi Palace peeking between trees. To the north the tower blocks of Galata and Taksim soar overhead. Below them on the west bank there a procession of interesting sights. A long low metallic warehouse houses the Istanbul Modern Art Gallery in Tophane. Playing peek-a-boo with the buildings on the water’s edge you can then see the Inönü Stadium, home of Beşiktaş, one of Istanbul’s three football teams (and a good source for local conversations; during my stay Beşiktaş were drawn against Manchester United, my team, in the group stages of the 2009-10 Champion’s League). And immediately beyond the stadium you find the Dolmabahçe Palace.

The Dolmabahçe Palace is a curlicued rococo edifice, a veritable Versailles-on-Sea. While it might have looked fine situated in the Loire valley it just looks very conspicuously out of place in Istanbul. As part of their attempts to modernise / Westernise in the mid-19th century the sultans decamped here from Topkapi (taking their harem with them). Appropriately enough, it was in this palace that the great moderniser of Turkey, Atatürk, died in 1938. Doesn’t mean it’s pretty though!

In Ortaköy the distinctive Mecidiye Mosque, its twin minarets in line with the massive stanchions of the kilometre long Bosphorus Bridge, the first bridge to ever span the straits when it was completed in the 1970s.

Beyond here the urban sprawl dies out somewhat, to be replaced by the monied water-front suburbs of Arnavutköy and Bebek. These are stunning places, with chic pastel-hued yalis fronted by a glorious Riviera-esque promenade. Wooded slopes climb to the rear, and powerboats and gülets, sails furled, bob in the water. The surroundings are not Middle Eastern – they’re not even particularly Mediterranean. Some people compared it to San Tropez; I though with its cool breezes, its waterfront activity, its pine trees, it reminded me of Helsinki more than anywhere else! Except I’m not sure Helsinki has quite so many designer bars and clubs alongside (and in one case floating out in) the sea. The places look an ideal place for a carefree wander with an ice cream if you have more free time in Istanbul. In fact Chris and Julia took a bus up to Bebek on their last afternoon to do just that.

The second (and last) Bosphorus bridge, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge, was the cue for our pilot to turn the boat around. Its ends are – entirely coincidentally – anchored by two massive 14th/15th century castles. The more impressive is the later Rumeli Hisari or ‘Fortress of Europe’, its massive grey walls still standing strong though now harbouring trees rather than warriors. On the other bank is the smaller Anadolu Hisari or Fortress of Asia.

The eastern bank is generally less interesting, though there are several palaces on the waterfront. Really, the most interesting sight is one that you don’t really go near, the tiny Maiden’s Tower on an islet just off Üsküdar. What surprised me was how close to the shore it was – all the images I had seen of it previously (for instance in the Bond movie The World Is Not Enough) made it seem to be isolated out at sea. Not so.

I would really have to recommend a trip (any trip) out on the water to complete your exploration of Istanbul. In fact, I would actually argue that it is one of the very first things you should make time for. Zipping over the cool water, seeing the city unfurl itself around you, not only gives you an entire different perspective on the city, but is also very relaxing. I’m well aware that hiring a private vessel may be out of the budgets of most – it was only because there were nine of us that made it economical (it cost 180TL in total for us, but you may be able to haggle the price down further). However I think all of us on that boat agreed that it was one of the top highlights of our stay in Istanbul, a city that is not exactly short of highlights.

From journal Holy of Holies

Strolling down the Bosphorus

  • March 7, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by angelvox from Istanbul, Turkey
Strolling down the Bosphorus

This location is alongside the Bosphorus and is a beautiful place when it's nice and sunny outside. Everyone grabs their family and/or lovers and goes for a great walk alongside the magical Bosphorus. On Sundays, it is very, very busy, especially if the weather is nice, but it's always worth watching those kids enjoy themselves whilst getting lungfuls of fresh air. This part of Istanbul is less polluted, so it's very refreshing. I wouldn't advise you to take a dog along, since it's way too crowded for them to walk peacefully. Near the Arnavutkoy boat dockage point, fishermen sell their freshly caught fish, and it makes for a wonderful dinner! Don't forget to show your kids the aquarium at this same location, full of sea horses and other cute little fishies.

From journal Istanbul, Where Europe and Asia embrace

Editor Pick

Tour along Bosphorus with Beggar's ship

  • February 1, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by linet from Eindhoven, Netherlands
Tour along Bosphorus with Beggar's ship

Take the boat from Eminonu: 10.30, 11.55, 13.30 on normal working days. This costs about 5$. You will make a long ride up and down Bosphorus, through all points of interest. This boat will stop at the following places:
Beşiktaş Kanlıca Yeniköy Sarıyer Rumeli Kavağı Anadolu Kavağı

In the weekend it will leave at 11.20 and will make the following stops:
Beşiktaş Ortaköy Kanlıca Sarıyer Rumeli Kavağı Anadolu Kavağı

Along the way, you will first notice the legendary girl's tower. There are countless stories about why this tower was built in the middle of the sea. It is used as a luxury restaurant today. A dinner here can set you back by 60$ per person. Customers are mainly business class of Istanbul.

You will see the houses of rich and famous Turks along the way, houses where a month’s rent is around 5000$. Dolmabahce sarayi is on the seaside, a place which was used after Topkapi. Just near that is another palace: Ciragan Sarayi, a luxury hotel today.

Kanlica, on the Anatolian side, is famous for its yogurt, preferably eaten with some sugar on it. If you are lucky this delicacy will be sold on the boat shortly after it leaves this stop.

You will be going under the bridges of Bosphorus; the fact that you are now between Europe and Asia will be at the back of your mind.

When you step out of the boat, you will be surprised with Anadolu kavagi, which feels like a fishing village more than a district of Istanbul. The boat will stop here for lunch. If you have brought you sandwiches, like I did, you will have a meal watching the black sea.

All through the voyage, views are great. Tea, coffee and other beverages are sold on the ship. I suggest you bring your simit with you (A round bread covered with sesame). I always bring more 'Simit' than I need, the rest to throw to the seagulls, which make acrobatic moves to catch it.

From journal Istanbul in 3 days

Editor Pick

Boat Tour up the Bosphorus

  • July 25, 2003
  • Rated 4 of 5 by ShannonBrooke from Somerville, Massachusetts
Boat Tour up the Bosphorus

The municipal ferry sails up and down the Bosphorus at least three times a day. On its way, it makes landings in both Asia and Europe. From the river, you can view the beautiful mansions along the straits. It''s your option to hop off and explore the neighborhoods along the way.

On the ride back, we caught a sunset on the Bosphorus - gorgeous. Some Spanish musicians were playing guitar on board, adding to the atmosphere. I have no idea if that''s typical. Where to Pick Up Ferry Emimonu - north of the Spice Market. On the Golden Horn between Galata Bridge and Sirkeci Station. Proceed to Dock 2. Buying Tickets You want to make sure you get the municipal ferry up the Bosphorus, because it''s fairly inexpensive and goes to all the same places as the private tour boats. You can buy tickets right at the docks. Sustenance Halfway up, yogurt vendors board and sell the delicious local yogurt. Other snacks and drinks are sold on board. The fishing village at the last stop is famous for its fish dishes. Anadolu Kavagi - Ruins Exploration The final stop is a small fishing village (Anadolu Kavagi) where you have fish and ice cream, or walk up to an abandoned fifth-century castle on the hill. The fish here was very fresh, but not very well-prepared. The highlight of the final stop was climbing to the abandoned castle. It''s quite a pastoral scene up there, with the ruined castle, the hills, and the deep turquoise-blue of the Bosphorus. We were lucky enough to witness a wedding couple having their pictures done.

From journal Istanbul in June

Editor Pick

Night cruise on the Bosphorous

  • September 15, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
Night cruise on the Bosphorous

One cannot visit Istanbul with out taking a ride on the Bosphorus, especailly at night. Many hotels will offer you a night cruise/dinner/entertainment package for around $90/person. This will put you on a large multi-decked boat with tons of other tourists, mediocre food, and second-rate belly dancing. However, for only around $120 dollars you can rent your own boat. (It will be more if you want food, too.) If you don't care about eating, and just want to float along the Bosphorus for an hour and a half or two hours, rent your own boat. The best place I found to rent boats, is in Bebek. Just take a taxi, or one of the many buses that run along the coast towards Sariyer. Walk past the town of Bebek, along the coast and you will see tons of boats with "For Rent" signs. You can go the day you want to rent, or you can go earlier and reserve a boat. All the captains are very accomodating and will design the trip around you, then give you a price depending on your needs, if you want food, alcohol, or whatever. You can also provide your own alcohol. The captain will then take you out whenever you want and drive you up and down the Bosphorus, so you can see all the lights of Istanbul. The tour will last as long as you want, but an hour and a half to two hours is a good amount of time to see everything. There are big boats that you can rent if you get a lot of friends to come along, or you can rent a smaller romantic boat for couples. If you really aren't into spending that amount of money on a boat and want to go the ultra budget route, hop one of the ferries at night from Eminönü to Uskudar, walk around Uskudar for a bit, then hop the ferry back to Beşiktaş. This will cost you only a few bucks, will be shorter and less comfortable, but it is cheap, and you get great views of the city. So whichever you choose, a night cruise on the Bosphorus is an experience not to be missed.

From journal A Summer in Istanbul

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