Sulyman the Magnificent ordered that the mosaics be removed, in accordance with the Muslim law forbidding icons. Fortunately, plaster was used, and many of these mosaics have since been restored. As you pass beneath the lustrous vaults of the portico, the stunning mosaic image of an emperor prostrating himself at the feet of Christ leads you into the massive central space of the church. It was in this space that emperors were crowned.

None of the treasures from the interior survived when the church was looted by the crusaders, and many of the mosaics were defaced by the Iconoclasts in the 8th century. The bronze door and the lovely marble work around the entry are original. In the apse, an exquisite Virgin and Child mosaic is stunning. The Virgin’s softly modeled face and wide luminous eyes appear almost human.

Follow the ramp up to the gallery for a closer view of the soaring domes and to view the remains of lovely mosaics. It is also a great spot to survey the gilt calligraphic inscriptions on the round plaster medallions, which bear the titles of Allah and the names of the Prophet, since the first four caliphs are located high on the columns. When Ataturk turned the building into a museum in 1936, the medallions were taken down but were then re-hung in the 1950s.

At the far end of the south gallery, in the mosaic of Christ between Empress Zoë and her husband, Constantine is unique because his face was superimposed over the faces of Zoë’s last two husbands (he outlived her).

When the church was turned into a mosque, two large alabaster urns were brought from Pergamon to be used for the ritual washing. The baptistery became a mausoleum holding the tombs of two sultans, Mustafa 1 and Ibrahim. The garden also holds tombs of sultans and a few murdered princes.

A popular spot is the weeping column. The fluid is purported to have miraculous powers. People stand in line to stick their fingers into a small niche. In reality, the porous stone draws water up from an underground cistern. Of course, I had to try this phenomenon, and I did feel a small damp spot! Two popes have visited this church, Pope Paul VI and John Paul I. It is truly a masterpiece. Open Tue-Sun, 9:30am-4:30pm. Admission $6.50, students $2.50.

Six minarets reached like stalagmites toward the incredibly blue sky. It was a stunning and unforgettable image evoking the tales of the Arabian Nights.

The Turkish architect Mehmet Aga built the mosque in the 1600s. The intention was to build a mosque to outshine that of the Sofya Aya. Both edifices are magnificent. Sultan Ahmet the First ordered that the mosque have six Minarets, but he had to pay for a seventh to be added to the mosque in Mecca.

We entered the mosque by a side door; only Muslims may enter through the massive main portal. An impassive custodian ensured all footwear was removed whilst scrutinizing the dress of females, as a hair covering is required and supplied if needed.

The interior is awash in a sea of blue Iznic tiles (approximately 20,000). It is said that one tile is worth about $35. Soaring aloft is a canopy of heavenly domes supported by four massive pillars. The center dome is109 feet wide and the pillars are 15 feet thick.

Shafts of light from hundreds of stained glass windows bathe the entire room in a magical pale blue haze, which imbue this massive space with illumination and serenity. A huge chandelier lit with tiny bulbs hangs from the center. The wires holding it are barely visible, creating the feeling of a star-filled room.

It was a totally mesmerizing experience and I know my description fails to impart its sheer splendor and majesty. The floor coverings are rich ruby-red Turkish carpets with smaller prayer mats atop, but it is the soaring domes and the sheer size of the interior that astounds the visitor.

Don’t miss the sound and light show every evening at dusk. The show is in a different language each evening, but whatever the language, it is not to be missed.

Sultan Ahmet died around 1617 at the age of 28. His tomb is near the mosque and is well worth seeing. The ebony doors worked with inscriptions from the Koran and the tile work inside is amazing. Entrance to the mosque is free, but a donation will be requested as you exit. Fee for the tomb is $1.

A good starting point for a visit to the Mosque is to walk round the exterior to get a good view of the external architecture. The six minarets were considered somewhat scandalous the time the Mosque was built, six minarets being seen as an attempt to rival Mecca.

The way the domes seem to sit on top of each other and the balancing effects of three minarets, one on each corner of the complex and two at the centre of each of the longer sides, gives the exterior a harmonious air. Looking through the entrance to the Mosque complex from the Hippodrome there is wonderful view of the domes, framed by the archway of the entrance, cascading towards the courtyard. Please note, however, that this entrance is closed to the general public and only open to worshippers. Therefore care and respect should be shown when viewing this.

As you approach the Mosque, you notice the stone seats and taps where worshipers perform their ritual ablutions before prayer. In the courtyard there is also a small and attractive ablutions fountain. The courtyard itself covers the same area as the floor of the prayer hall giving a sense of equilibrium and balance. Standing in the courtyard and allowing your eyes to wander up one of the minarets really does raise your view to the heavens.

The inside of the mosque is spacious and peaceful; though I would imagine that the latter depends on the time you visit. Huge intricate chandeliers hang a few feet above your head, the blues reds and gold’s of the decoration draw your eye which, as with the minarets, will lead you to look upward towards the painted interior of the dome and semi-domes.

It is a truly wonderful building, serene and majestic. The aesthetic of the interior and exterior is beautiful and harmonious and the expression of faith contained in the building is quite humbling.

During the summer months there is a very interesting Son et Lumiere show just after dusk, which includes an imagined talk between the architect Mehmet Aga and his mentor Sinan.

It is probably best to visit the Mosque in the morning soon after it opens to the public (about 9.15/9.30am) and before it gets too busy. Visitors should dress modestly i.e. long trousers or skirts, no shorts, women should cover bare shoulders and also make sure they have a headscarf to cover their heads. You will be asked to take off your shows and carry them with you (a plastic bag is provided). There is no set charge to visit the Mosque but a donation is requested.

The entrance is free, but a donation is encouraged upon your departure via the main portal. Since this is a place of worship, visitors should try to be as low-key as possible. The entrance for visitors is tucked away within the spacious courtyard, and visitors are not welcome during prayer times. Shoes will need to be removed and placed in plastic bags for safekeeping.

The name of the Blue Mosque can be a bit misleading at first, as I expected to see interiors as blue as those of stained-glass windowed churches in France. The name is derived from the blanket use of over 20,000 blue (and white) Iznik tiles on the wall surfaces that do give the interior a subdued bluish effect. The grand interior space under the central dome (77 feet in diameter, 141 feet high) is inspirational indeed, with four gigantic piers (over 16 feet in diameter) supporting the dome. The interiors seem much brighter than those of the Hagia Sophia thanks to stained glass windows. The exterior also features a cluster of domes that lead the eye to the uplifting central dome.

The ablution fountains center the courtyard, and one can rest on the large step that rings the courtyard. The tomb of Sultan Ahmet, along with those of his wife and three of his sons, is outside the precinct wall.

As at the nearby Hagia Sophia, visitors may be surrounded by various touts and sellers after exiting the perimeter of the Blue Mosque. The assortment of nearby landmarks includes the ancient Roman Hippodrome, and the Hammam of Roxelana.